Topic: H.M.S.Bronington

[martinfbrown]

I understand that the signal wire of the servo/ esc would be connected towards the outside of the receiver, but the connections on the tamco receiver are into the side of the rx and not on the top. So how do you assume which is the outside of the rx?
Martin

[colin]

does your Receiver look like this..?
the Signal cable can be White, yellow, orange...
the plus cable is always Red
the minus cable is always black\brown

if there is a Key (notch) on the Receiver then the Signal cable would always be located that side
there should be some markings on the Receiver, that look simular to the photo attached..

[martinfbrown]

Yes, that's the receiver. The servo leads are coloured as follows:yellow-red-brown. In this case I presume the yellow cable is the signal, the red obviously positive and the brown negative. So it plugs in, with the signal cable to the outside of the rx, as the drawing shows. Now the colours of the mtronics esc are the same as the servo, so connected same. I had actually found that photo online, but still was not sure. Like I said, I have been away from r/c models for a long time now. I am going to get the 7.2volt battery pack today. Thanks again for your very good help.
Martin

[martinfbrown]

I have just bench tested the r/c system, it was okay except there was a little interference on the rudder servo, when the throttle servo was operating. When I moved the servo close to the motors,the interference was worse. Do you still need to put the 0.1microfarad capacitors on the motors for suppression? The model shop where i bought the battery, said that with the 2.4GHz system i should not need the caps.
Martin

[radio joe]

These systems work best with a bit of distance between the TX and Rx at close quarters you can get small glitches, try keeping
the Rx as far from the motors as possible and move the Tx away and try that, also don't point the Tx antenna at the Rx,  signals
are radiated from the side of the antenna the end is a null spot, I never fit suppressors to motors and don't get problems,
I sometimes get a bit of servo chatter at home but this disappears at the lake, most of our homes are full of WiFi signals these
days and the slight interference is most likely due to that. 

[martinfbrown]

Thanks, I never thought of getting any interference from wi-fi etc, it was just a little chatter from the rudder servo.
Martin

[martinfbrown]

Started building Bronington yesterday(18/04/2015). Smoothed hull top edge down, drilled the holes for propshafts and ruder tubes. The instructions say sand the inside top edge of the hull to a smooth finish using ali-oxide paper and finish off with filler primer. Is that just a primer paint for the inside of the hull, forgive my ignorance, as I have not built this type of model for over 30 years now. thanks
Martin

[radio joe]

Hi Martin, no it's not a primer paint, it's just a rub down around the inside top edge of the hull to smooth the area where the
deck bearers fit. 

[martinfbrown]

Hi Joe,  Thanks, I have had to fill in the prop shaft holes, as they seemed to be well out of line. Filler has dried and I have marked the prop shaft holes again. The position of the rudder tubes and the shafts is a little vague to say the least, but i am getting there.
Martin

[radio joe]

Martin don't assume all the marks on the hull and the styrene sheets are right, use the plan to get the measurements and
check before drilling or cutting, Deans kits do make into nice models but they are a little quirky.

[martinfbrown]

Yes, I have discovered that. The rudder tube holes were okay, but the propshaft holes were a little vague. I have taken the measurements from the plan for position of everything. Also, the motor mount fixing is a little vague. According to the instructions, the centres of the shaft ends is 35mm, but when I drilled the holes, they were not aligned up at all. At first,I thought that the shafts were in line with the rudder tube holes, but on carefull checking, the prop shafts are outboard of the rudders.
Martin   

[martinfbrown]

I now have the November issue of Marine Modelling, with the review and build of HMS Bronington. It could prove quite helpful.
Martin

[martinfbrown]

Just an update. Now got the shafts and rudders installed. I am not using the motor mount that comes with the kit, i am using a wood mount, as i think that is better than the plastic one.
Martin

[colin]

every Body modifies there models to suit there Needs...
i always install a bulkhead to Mount the Motors and a bulkhead to Support the propshaft..

[martinfbrown]

I got the MFA motors, and they came with a mount, so I have just bent the motor mounting bracket to suit the angle of the shafts. then mount the motors on a wood plinth.
Martin