Topic: My build of HMS Solebay.

[paul swainson]

I then took a small strip of tube styrene about 0.35mm and placed between two 12 inch rulers stuck to my mat and run a Sharpe blade down the length to create a flat surface so that I could bond the support for cables to the top section of the funnel using the plans to mark the correct distance.  To help be kept a straight line I marked the distance out on a section of masking tape cut to the desired width and then rapted around the funnel top section with the sticky side facing out until it stuck on its self. Then using the lower edge I bonded the cable support beam around the the funnel (I did stretch the styrene around a small bottle to get a nice curve.
Then fitted the funnel plateform and suing some very fine 0.20mm micro strips bonded foot grates and using a 0.2mm flat micro lined the edge of the platefore to give the fine edge you would normally see on this type of platform.  The railling are just 0.5mm square styrene for support and the banister.

[paul swainson]

I then made up the siren plateform from the photo etch destroyer kit and once the sides were folder I cut a small triangle from 0.5mm waist and boned into place with supper glue.  Then using a 0.65mm drill I drilled into the  underside section of siren plateform and again through the walkway to allow some 0.4mm round styrene to create the air line to the siren.   Rubbed down the siren with a small file to remove the Sharpe edges and make the siren look like one and then pined this to the funnel so that it rests on the plateform.  Then just bonded the rest of the tube to the foot of the funnel.  Using the two steam vent pipes supplied with the kit (J64) shaped and pined to the funnel.

[paul swainson]

I made op the funnel mesh as per the instruction and I used electrical cable which had the insulation removed and then strands taken to from the layout.  Once soldered as per the instructions I used the 0.65mm drill and marked and drilled the holes into the top cover of the funnel and fitted the mesh.  The fine result!
I will try to get clear photos as the camera dose not take good close up shots.  I hope you like.  Paul

[colin]

i knew you could do it Paul...   

[radio joe]

Well done Paul, I knew you would make a good job of it.

[Dennis]

Excellent work Paul, nice details on the funnel

[radio joe]

Hey Paul,  I just noticed you don't have an opening for the gangway in the aft end of Q deck, is that intentional.

[paul swainson]

Yes I Left it alone until I put in the extra long ladder.  As the ladder comes from the deck to the walk way not from the Q deck I left it alone until I see what space is there and then will put in two supports either side of the ladder when its in and then cut away the un needed rail.  " What Sharpe eyes you have Joe.  Nice to know you are keeping me right.

[radio joe]

Hi Paul   I should have known you had it all in hand, and now you said that I seem to remember I did the same thing, ( another senior moment )  LOL

[mikearace]

Well there is sod all wrong with that funnel Paul!!  Cracking job despite your trepidation.

[paul swainson]

Thanks lads for all the nice comments.  I really thought I would mess the funnel and nearly did.  Well I am now going to seal all the hull port holes and fill them with clear epoxy and then set up the lighting so that I can see the port holes.  I have two ideas.   
1st using a 6 volt mini bulb one for each row, that means one for top row and one for the bottom row on each side for the bow and one for each side at the stern.  Using a box section of styrene with one side cut away and the ends sealed and lined with silver baking foil.  Place the bulb at the end and then bond the section along each row of port holes. wire the bulbs to a central point and connect a battery to run all lights.
2ND Taking a rear brake light unit from a Mercedes-Benz CLC (when broken down the inside has four printed circuits with very small LED wire with built in ressisters.) cut the wiring for each board insert into each box section like above one side cut away and lined with silver foil.  Wire the boards to a central point so that they are wired in sequence to maintain the circuit system and connect a battery.  The problem is that this would have to be 12volts with enough amps to drive the LED,s  (do not need them as bright as care brake lights 21Amps.  But enough to give off light.  Food for thought.
Any other ideas?
Paul.

[radio joe]

Hi Paul, lit portholes ? well you are going the whole hog,  I would personally use 6 volt led's they have a much longer life than filament bulbs and run without any heat, plus less power drain and one tip if I may, use orange ones they look far more realistic on a model than clear white light I used them on my railway buildings with good effect, Do you intend to switch the lights remotely, this is how I did the lights and smoke on my paddle tug.

[paul swainson]

Thanks for that Joe, will add that to my thought process.  Paul

[paul swainson]

Well the 1st idea did not work with a 6 volt micro bulb.   I cut a small section of a three sided box section and lined it with silver foil.  Place the bulb mid section and using masking tape taped it covering a section of port holes.  It light up three port holes, but the disaster is that you could see the main light through the side of the hull.  The printed circuit boards all work but I will need a box section that is 12mm wide for the Printed circuit board to be held inside.  So will try a section again using the deck to close up the hull and see what effect the LED lights have when I switch them on.  I have a feeling that the idea of lights for the port holes in the hull are not going to work. Paul.

[mikearace]

Given this Paul, if you really want to light up the internals, is it worth concentrating on the bridge structure where you can paint the insides dark to reduce 'light through' which wont show outside once you have painted her grey?