Topic: My build of HMS Solebay.

[paul swainson]

The proposed layout.

[paul swainson]

The instructions supplied say that I should solder cable and resisters to the motors.  There are no resister in the kit.   Do we have to fit them and if so why and  who can supply them?  Any suggestions please!

[radio joe]

Hi Paul, The suppressors fitted to brushed motors are to stop the electrical noise caused by the brushes which can cause interference to the receiver, having said that I rarely fit them and have never had any trouble with receiver interference, but if you decide to fit them you can get a suppression kit with instructions from just about any model shop.  I see you are using a receiver battery pack, instead of the battery eliminator circuit on the speed controller is there a reason for that.   Joe.

also Paul don't forget to keep the speed controllers as far away from the receiver as possible

[mikearace]

I never fit them and have never had a problem but guess there is always a first time.  Some people have a head fit if they know you dont fit suppressors but I think personaly the threat is over egged.  Mind you I have a fair few MFA motors in my various boats which already have suppression built in.

[paul swainson]

Thanks for that gents,  As i have never had a need to fit them either.   The set up I am using is the same as per the instruction with the model.   I hope to use my 40 MHz FM transmitter and receiver, so I have always use a battery pack with RX.  I do not know about the battery eliminator circuit on the Mitroniks Micro Viper ESC.   In the set up instructions it tells me to connect a battery pack to the ESC.   Please do tell more about eliminator circuit.   I have read that I must disconnect the red lead from all ESC when using an external battery pack or I can use this ZGM connection that Mitroniks have now to stop disconnecting wires.   

The other option I have is to do away with the battery pack use the action mixer which is in my MTB and connect the ESC to that along with the servo for the rudder and that does away with all above.  Only draw back is moving the mixer from boat to boat.

[radio joe]

I have used two esc's in my solebay connected to the receiver via a Y-lead, remember to remove a red wire from one of the esc's this does away with rx battery, one less battery to charge and I still get about an hours running on the main batteries, and with this setup I get good destroyer like performance without the need for a mixer.

the red wire in each of the rc leads from the esc's is the battery eliminator circuit when using multipal esc's only one of them must supply the receiver, the best way I have found is to ease the red wire contact out of the rc plug and tape it out of the way that way you can always replace it if neccesary.

[Caledonia]

Where you going to sail your model?  Largs?

[Jeremy]

If you dont want to cut wires the ZGM from Mtroniks is recommended by them as a solution. I have one but so far have not used it as I only used one  speed controller on each model, I just uprated them. Both of my twins run on a single 40 amp controller

[paul swainson]

When I do finish her I will sale her at Irvine pond, has a mixture of water some places flat calm other a bit choppy so will get a good sea trials as they say.   But have stopped working on her at the moment, Doing a scratch build to get use to working with plastic card and once I am happy will continue, do not want to spoil this model.

[paul swainson]

Well I have returned to building HMS Solebay after a break working on a stealth frigate which I practised cutting measurements and fitting to get a bit of experience as I had never work with plastic card.  So on with the build as I feel confident with it now.  I also hunter around and obtained as many photos of the ship as I could but all are at sea and distance shots of the ship.   So I built up a file of all the Battle class destroyers and got hold of a PDF file of the second book on this type of ship.  That had better close up photos.

So the next task was to bond in the deck support beams/panels.   I found that as there was no plans for their position in the hull other then the photos I had from Radio Joe and Deans Marine, I marked out the open space's from the deck plans to the bottom of the hull and then using them as a guide,  positioned the plates and marked the spots in the hull.  Worked a treat.   When bonding in I used my straight edge and spirit level to ensure all was square.

Once they were in I then drilled out all the of top layer of port holes, using a drill bit with my hand.   Then drilled out the 6 sea hatches 3each side and fitted the sea hatches in place with a little bit of trimming.

Paul.

[paul swainson]

Once I had drilled and fitted the port holes I then bonded into place the deck supports to the side of the hull for the deck to lay on.   I cut a small bit of wood and cut a grove 2mm deep so that all the supports are 2mm below the top of deck was very easy to fit them using the very simple idea.   So will wait now for a few days for the glue to harden.

So far the I am happy with the build and I feel I can work out most of the problems I first saw when I read the build instruction.  So I hope I will be able to build a good quality model which will give me hours of please in her build.   This will be a long project inter mingles with smaller ones along the way.

Any think that you see me do could be done another way would appreciate the tip.

Paul.

[mikearace]

Well at the moment it seems your following tried and trusted build steps so some great progress there.  Only word of caution I would suggest is be careful with the deck openings for access to the couplings.  Photo's sometimes do lie, but from the angle your couplings seem a tight access  in the event that something goes wrong with them and they slip or whatever so just make sure that the midships ply and deck access let you get at them.  Its often a tight squeeze I know.  On my Intrepid the oiler tubes are a B&?&?&r to get at - I have to use some fule tubing over them then over the oil can!!!

[paul swainson]

Yes Mike I had the same thought when I was doing my measurements.   I noted that Radio Joe did not put in the middle deck support plate but used in stead smaller cross beams.  So I looked at this and positioned the deck so that I could remove the drive motors with out fuss and that the oil holes tubes was also clear.   The only problem i may have is with removing the propshaft coupling.  So if I remove the motor, and can then loosen the coupling from the shaft and then the lock nuts will come off with no problems using a extension bar with a m4 socket on the end.  So I will not have to use so many cross beams and I follow the Dean Marines build very closely so others may do the same.  Your comment is noted and well thought out i hope.

[mikearace]

Then all should be okay.  As I said the photo can lie - from the angle I was just a little worried that you might not have clear access to your couplings - from your description its going to be fine.  Didnt want to keep stum and not say anything but didnt want to be seen to be critical - I am not trying to be its just that sods law seems to be when you make access easy tis never needed.  When you dont make access its needed!!  Found that out to my cost with my Sirmar Ton Class Build a few years back when the tiller arm was virtually inaccessible after the build and the tiller arm went over on itself.  Much cussing and swearing and nights spent working out how to sort it out.

[paul swainson]

The information you gave is the reason why I have put up this tread.  I welcome the information better to know during the build (when you can correct) then after and as you say sods law something does go wrong.  I just hope I have thought it through and it will be OK.  Once again do not be stum please give it will help me and others who read out treads.

Paul