Author Topic: HMS Cossack  (Read 4261 times)

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Offline Tjorven

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HMS Cossack
« on: 14 July 2018, 21:44:52 »
So it has begun.

The kit arrived thursday evening, and today the start was made with the cleaning of the hull and some trimming of the edges (not all are done yet). I hope to get all the trimming done tomorrow evening, if the kids and wife allow it.

I'm going to try to keep a build log over here, as detailed as possible with pictures.
Feel free to comment if you see anything "abnormal" or with any hints or tips. They are most welcome as this is my first built.


Offline Tjorven

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Re: HMS Cossack
« Reply #1 on: 16 July 2018, 21:52:55 »
So I have been sanding some more, and have cut out the stern and forcastle deck template out and started to sand them to fit. Took some measurements too and found out the hull is leaning outwards on the top by almost 5 mm.

Would it be best to first fit in all electronics and then the decks/beams who will pull the hull inwards, or first fit the deck templates and beams to get the hull straight and then fit all electronics on their shelves and propshaft, rudder etc.

Does anyone also can tell me if in the standard kit, there is also something supplied to connect the servo to the rudder? Or do I have to get this somewhere else. (The tiller arms are supplied, but I don't know about the connecting rod);

Also a note to Ron:
with the transmitter/receiver in the box was the manual of a different transmitter/receiver. For me it is no problem but just wanted you to know as the box was unopened and it's probably the manufacturer who made the error. The transmitter was Hi-Tec Light 4 and the manual was for the DXE5.

Offline rondean

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Re: HMS Cossack
« Reply #2 on: 17 July 2018, 11:08:05 »
Hi Tjorven
 Connecting the tiller to the servo is just a length of piano wire with z bend in each end to stop is coming adrift
 will check up on all the ohter radios sets in stock, thank you for the tip off
 Regards
 Deans Marine

Offline rondean

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Re: HMS Cossack
« Reply #3 on: 18 July 2018, 09:05:27 »

Also a note to Ron:
with the transmitter/receiver in the box was the manual of a different transmitter/receiver. For me it is no problem but just wanted you to know as the box was unopened and it's probably the manufacturer who made the error. The transmitter was Hi-Tec Light 4 and the manual was for the DXE5.
[/quote]

 check out the sets we have,now corrected,
 do you wish us to send you a duplicate instruction book
Ron

Offline Tjorven

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Re: HMS Cossack
« Reply #4 on: 18 July 2018, 14:01:55 »
No it's not needed.
I have downloaded the manual from their website and don't need a paper version.
But thanks for the offer tho.

Offline Tjorven

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Re: HMS Cossack
« Reply #5 on: 18 July 2018, 20:21:37 »
I think I have found some mis-cast. For the rudder to move there is a tiller arm included, but it lacks it's holes for the rudder arm to come through, and also has no hole to fit the fastening screw. If it is meant for me to drill those, I'll have to find out how to make the threads this small.


Offline Tjorven

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Re: HMS Cossack
« Reply #6 on: 25 July 2018, 14:46:13 »
So after some more working on the boat, and screwing up the rudder tiller arm, I found a shop around 30 mins from my home and got what I needed to upgrade this piece of equipment.

Have it all installed with the necessary problems (1 shaft is a little bit out of line, but 5 motor mounts further on there is practically no noise anymore except the motors themselves (they do kind off whistle rather loud on low speeds)) and am working now to fit the deck templates in ply, the beams and the deck itself. However I found out that the mould is all around around 7 mm's taller then the plan (wich is for me no problem, gives me 7mm more clearance to the water and I could use the extra space around my rudder servo).

But looking at the foredeck, and that it has an incline upwards, altho the forward superstructure is flat, I was wondering if the tilt began after the deck, after the A gun mount around the water break, or like the plan, directly very slightly from where the iron deck starts (the higher part of the deck).

Also I noticed I have some 30-ish portholes missing on the mould but that's no problem. Drilling is easier then rubbing them away.


Edit: As I have been looking at a rather big bunch of photographs and other drawings and (free) plans I think the incline starts at the water break. If anyone knows for sure, please let me know.
« Last Edit: 25 July 2018, 18:38:32 by Tjorven »

Offline karlgalster

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Re: HMS Cossack
« Reply #7 on: 20 August 2018, 18:49:19 »
Hi Tjorven
I am glad you have decided to do a build log of your HMS Cossack. I don't think you will get much response on here as the forum is very, very quite of recent years. However, I have in the past built to DM destroyers - HMS Kelly and KM Z37 so I have an interest in what you are building. You look to have made a good start.

Can I ask what motors and batteries you are using? The reason I am asking is that at this very moment I am refurbishing Z37 (actually she is now HMS Nonsuch ex Z38) as I have trouble with the deck coming away from the hull. I am also replacing the two motors which have become very corroded. The original Kondor motors were bought about 2011 and ran with 8.4volt NiMH. The replacement Kondor motors bought a week ago are not the same as my original motors and seem a lot more powerful! I will need to program my transmitter to limit the demand the throttle lever can send to the model. At present I have set the transmitter to give 50% maximum demand. Hopefully your transmitter can be adjusted if necessary?

Robin

Offline Tjorven

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Re: HMS Cossack
« Reply #8 on: 20 August 2018, 19:35:27 »
I'm happy you are interested in my first build. I will upload some more pictures in the near future as I have finished motors, electrics rudder etc, and all support beams. Am currently trimming the decks to fit and searching for a test pond in my neighbourhood. That seems to be very big since most of them appear to be nature reservates (and thus forbidden to do anything on) or private owned. But I'll find a spot.

About your questions: I have bought 2 kondor 11 and am using the NCD-4 batteries from Deans (2 of them, 1 for each motor). I don't think I can limit my transmitter output, but I can limit my finger movement.
While testing the motors in the kids pool (barely big enough to fit it) I stopped it moving on the front, and with full throttle it pulled the back down a bit. But not too much.

What I am curious to find out tho is the turning radius before I do a real test run. I have a canal nearby, with a small spot I could sail but it is narrow. maybe 5 or 6 meters tops.

Offline Charles Hart

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Re: HMS Cossack
« Reply #9 on: 21 August 2018, 08:26:38 »
Hi Tjorven – I am in the process of building HMS Cossack too so will be following your build with interest – I have installed the running gear and have the decks in place and am working on the superstructure so that I can get an idea of the amount of ballast that will be required to get her to the correct waterline. This is my first Deans Marine build and am finding it both a challenge and very rewarding – the secret is to take your time and not rush.

Offline karlgalster

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Re: HMS Cossack
« Reply #10 on: 21 August 2018, 15:22:35 »
Like HMS Kelly, HMS Cossack has two screws with a central propeller. This arrangement works well with the full sized ship but due to the effect of scale on the density of water model boats with this configuration do not turn that well. With HMS Kelly I had to discard the kit rudder in favour of a much larger rudder so that the wash of the propellers could act on the rudder surface. Kelly with the kit sized rudder had a turning circle of about 5 metres >:D
Robin

Offline Tjorven

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Re: HMS Cossack
« Reply #11 on: 21 August 2018, 18:47:33 »
@charles: you're further on then me. It's a pitty pictures on the forum are so small.

@karl: What type of rudder did you fit then? 5 meters is way to much for me also. And to what radius did you get it down to?
« Last Edit: 21 August 2018, 18:56:00 by Tjorven »

Offline karlgalster

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Re: HMS Cossack
« Reply #12 on: 22 August 2018, 19:09:40 »
Hi Tjorven

Rudders. I have never used the white metal rudder arms. I have either bought a rudder arm from a model shop or scratch built them from brass using the metal terminal blocks from electrical terminal strips - in UK they are called "chocolate blocks"  :). The two screws in a single termination  hold the rudder post very well and you can easily solder a small brass arm onto the top of the terminal block drilled to take the connection to the servo.

My HMS Kelly started with the standard kit rudder but was quickly replaced with a scratch built rudder of approximately the same shape but about twice the area. My present rudder is a rather ugly thing (see photos) which is even larger and rectangular in shape. Its design is meant to be similar to a "fish tail" rudder - Schilling rudder (see internet) which gives a huge boost to maneuverability. Not sure if it works on Kelly. The Kelly Schilling rudder is 6cm x 4.3cm

Even with the large rudder the turning circle is no better than 3.5 Metre diameter.

If you are very lucky some of the other Deans Marine builders on this forum who have built these destroyers may also offer their view on this subject  ???




Offline Charles Hart

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Re: HMS Cossack
« Reply #13 on: 22 August 2018, 19:43:37 »
Hi Tjorven – see attached images showing my modification of the kit supplied rudder – this follows the drawing supplied with the kit.

Offline Charles Hart

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Re: HMS Cossack
« Reply #14 on: 22 August 2018, 19:53:11 »
Hi Tjorven – a selection of images from my build attached.