Topic: Z37

[karlgalster]

Hi out there. I have been building the Deans Marine Z37 for some three months now so thought I had better show what progress is being made. I am approaching the Z37 build in much the same manner as my fellow forum member Belgium Crazy Team who stated in a recent posting in the "chit chat" topic in General Discussion -

"I always say that when I buy a kit, I buy time (the time that is needed to make a hull, fittings, ....)
I always refer to Ron's kits as scratchbuilding    because I normally don't use the plan he provides but get more detailed drawings of John Lambert.  Sometimes I don't use the fittings in the kit but I scratchbuild them."

I am actually using the kit drawing as a basis but using several books/DVDs I have obtained for further information.

I attach three photos. One shows what is in the box, the other two show the model after the control system had been installed and tested. I am using a Futaba 2.4Ghz radio - no more frequency channel pegs for me! I have advanced the model much further than this and will add more progress reports in time.

[Belgium Crazy Team]

When I look at your pictures, everything is nicely put in place...
Why did you put the 2 battery packs not in front of each other?  That keeps the center of gravity low.
In destroyer type boats I always try to keep the center of gravity as low as possible.


These photo's are bringing back memories from the time I build my Z...
I had a motor problem with my Z after she was finished and had to install water-cooling with an installed deck...
When I tested her with an open deck the motor could "breath and no excessive heat was reduced, but with an installed deck and no room for extra ventilation, the motors heated up.
So the only solution was install water cooling. 

[karlgalster]

I wanted the destroyer to run for a long period so installed two batteries each 3300mAH NiMH 8.4volts. There is not enough room to place these in line so they are side by side. Actually they are reasonably low in the hull so centre of gravity will be low. Side by side they form a  shallow "vee" shape (see below). I am surprised you had motor cooling problems. I have the Deans Marine Kondor motors the same as I used in HMS Kelly which are excellent and run at reasonable temperature - overheating not an issue.

[Belgium Crazy Team]

I did not use Ron's motors... I "found" some small industry 12V motors.
That's probably the reason off the heating...
Now with the additional cooling they work perfectly.

Nicely done with the 2 battery packs.  You also added some wood to prevent that they can move.

[karlgalster]

The wood to stop the batteries moving. In HMS Kelly I have a similar arrangement of two batteries side by side but I did not add the wood strips thinking the batteries would stay put by themselves - WRONG. The batteries tend to move during transport by car and on launching I tend to get a list one way or the other - I have to poke around with a long screwdriver to shift the batteries about by guesswork. This is not very a precise activity and is irritating but only myself to blame.  In the Kelly the space for the batteries was such that once the rest of the electrical system was installed the batteries are more or less sealed in and cannot be removed so adding the strips would be impossible without major work.
Robin
Just got our first real snow here in SE England for 18 years - 4inches, absolute chaos!

[Belgium Crazy Team]

I saw the snow troubles on TV.
I'm glad we have escaped the snow  in Belgium.

On the bright side: when you can't get out it's building time 

[karlgalster]

You are right, I am spending a lot of time building at the moment - want to get this ready for the next sailing season.
The authorities here who are responsible for keeping our roads safe and usable are now telling us they are running out of salt so heaven help us if it keeps on snowing!

[karlgalster]

A further progress report on the Z37. Attached photos show the decks fitted. The full hull shot illustrates the elegant shape of the "Narvick" type. The propeller shot shows the laminated design of the rudders which works quite well. Unfortunately the marks on the glass fibre hull for the A-frames were too close to the stern which I did not notice until too late (moral here is to measure and check before drilling or cutting). Probably will affect the model in the water but a true "rivet counter" will notice this mistake! I have departed from the kit stuff for the anchor ways in the forecastle. The complex carved shape where the anchors will rest may require some extra work to get a smooth finish. Will only discover this when I get round to priming. The view of the centre hatch shows a departure from the kit design. The kit originally had a very narrow hatch with a combing. Unfortunately I have largish hands so access to the electrical installation below would have been impossible so I have enlarged the hatch. The hatch is now flush fitting so water ingress may be an issue but with a sealing layer of vaseline all should be OK. At this stage all electrical items have been removed except for the Futaba 2.4Ghz receiver which is attached to the hull side using Velcro.

[Belgium Crazy Team]

Nice progress...
The anchor ways are a nice addition to the hull.  If my memory is correct, this is something that isn't described in the kit.

She is one of the longest destroyers of that era, I think the ratio (length/with) creates her elegant shape.

On the deck of several narvicks there were small railroad track.
On these tracks the mines were stored before dropping them of the back.

[karlgalster]

You mention the narrowness of the hull. I am slightly apprehensive that this destroyer will be a real roller! The actual Narvicks were notoriously top heavy. How did you get on with your Z26?
I am going to represent the mine rail track with Evergreen styrene strip 0.75mmx2mm bonded on its thin end. I think this will be close to scale. The kit instructions suggest 1mmx1mm but this may look OK but not scale.
By the way your Narvick has bilge keels. I am considering adding these but would be interested in hearing how you went about it. I am not sure how to make these strong enough to withstand the knocks it is likely to receive at the lake side.
Regards
Robin

[Belgium Crazy Team]

The whole upperstructure is made with 0.75 and 0.5mm plastic card (not the default 1mm that Ron provides...)

The rails are simulated in a small brass T I found Dortmund.
She can roll a lot.  But when I sail in heavy weather I give her 2 12V battery packs.  She sits deeper in the water but is more stable.

The 2 keels are made to fit perfectly. I first designed them in cardboard.  This I modified until it had a perfect fit (no gaps, smooth line,....).  Then I used the cardboard to cut out the plastic bilge keel.  I glued them on with a normal cyno glue.

After all the years they haven't come off.

[karlgalster]

Thanks for the information on your bilge keels. I will do the same. I have also used some 0.75mm and 0.5mm plastic in place of the 1mm kit material. I would like to use aluminum tube instead of brass tube for the mast to lessen the top weight but I cannot solder it - any ideas?
Robin

[Belgium Crazy Team]

Robin,

I made a mast in brass tubes.
For smaller boats, I often make a mast in carbon.  You can buy this: the first part of a fishing line.  It's cone shaped and it has a small diameter.

Kurt

[karlgalster]

Thanks Kurt,
I think I will stick with brass tube. I use solder with its own flux as used for electrical component assembly on a printed circuit board with the addition of a brush on flux. I have found that the flux tends to react with paint (I got a green reaction with Humbrol enamel on one of my earlier models). I try to remove the flux after soldering with methylated spirit but I am not sure this is ideal - anybody got a better remover?
Robin

[colin]

after i have soldered something, i then file the joint, by the time i am finished filing or sanding theres not really any flux left on the joint!!

i might have to much solder on the joint at the start of things, but i have never had the Problem with paint having a reaction with my brass, i also uses Humbrol enamel.