Topic: My build of HMS Solebay.

[paul swainson]

Well after seeing Radio Joe's build, I need to make a move on mine.   The garage was full and very little room so needed a new site.   Purchased a new 8x6 shed and kitted it out with all mod cons, carpets,power, and heater. (its could up here in the winter.)   So I started with the Hull and sanded it down to the correct deck level.  Marked out the the deck templates using tracing paper.   I decided to make my own templates so if I made an error I could do them again and again till I got them all right.   Can't do that if I messed up the originals.   The hull will need to be made ready for the prop shafts and rudder before i bond in the templates and support beams.  So will report again when done.

[radio joe]

Hi Paul glad to see you made a start on her, look forward to following your progress.

[paul swainson]

Well the next stage was to cut out the propshaft apertures, and trim to fit, instruction said cut to within the area displayed on the hull and open to 40mm.  Done but when I looked for the markings of for the propshaft frames, none to be found.  So with a bit of help from Deans I used playdow to support the tubes in position and fitted the propellers and found the best place to fit the frames.  Made a small bracket to fit on the ends of the propshaft tubes to ensure i had the same distance between then all the way down.  Using a very small drill 0.05 made the holds for the frames and positioned all.  As the attached photos show all looks well.  But there is a sting in the tail, see next post.

[paul swainson]

After fitting the frames drilled out and fitted the rudder tube.   Made sure the tube was clear and the rudder fitted with no problems.   Set every thing up and all looked OK.   So I went ahead with the bonding of the tubes and used a 5 min drying time epoxy also using some fiber glass matting to help in the strength.   After drying time, i checked and found all is well,  but then I noticed the height of the propshaft inside the hull was higher then 5mm, in fact it was closer to 3.5 cm.   Need to look into how the motors will fit now!   After checking the clearance of the motors they will be very close to the under side of the deck.   Also noted at the end I still have to fit a support plate for the rudder tube.   Well I am wondering if the motors being higher in the hull will make a difference or should I cut out the shafts and drill the holes wider for the prop shaft frames so the go deeper into the hull hence lowering the other end of the propshaft and the final postion of the motors.   If so what would be the best method to loosen the expoxy?

[paul swainson]

how its looks when motor are in place (temp)

[colin]

Hi Paul,
you could warm the epoxy with a hair dryer, this should give you enough play in the epoxy to remove the shafts... without damaging anything.
if you have a lot of epoxy then you could use an old soldering iron, to remove a lot of the epoxy first...

[paul swainson]

Thanks Colin, but should I enlarge the holes to push futher into the hull the prop frames and then reseal with epoxy, so that the shaft are lower down, as they seem to be the cause of the problem or should I cut them down in hight and drill using some copper wire to hold in place after soldering in?

[colin]

Hi Paul
looking at your photo's, your "A" frames look OK, you might have to lengthen your slots for the prop shafts so that the motor end of the prop shaft can be lowered into the hull.

[Manxman1831]

Hello.  Looking at your pictures of the prop tubes for your destroyer, I thought I might offer my two penn'orth.  The slot length looks good.  If you can, cut out the epoxy (or if possible shatter it) and lower your tubes with the A-frames still attached until they are resting against the leading end of the slots.  The length of the frames will prevent your propellers from actually hitting the hull, whilst the length of the slots looks like it will accommodate the motor end being lowered.

I know others may have made this suggestion in passing, but once you are happy with the new angling, tape up the outside of the hull over the slot and pour a healthy dose of resin into the slot.  Once dry, the resin should match the profile of the tape, and that can be removed (except for the bits bonded to the resin).

[radio joe]

Hi Paul,  The motors in my solebay are quite high,the highest point on the motors to the underside of the deck is 15mm. I can't tell the measurement of yours from the photo. but as long as the motors are clear of the under side of deck I would leave as is and not risk damage to the hull, the slight increase in the shaft angle should not effect the running of the boat and in my opinion could even help to keep the bow down at speed.

[mikearace]

My Intrepid (Daring) motors are also nearer the underside of the deck than they are the bottom of the hull and I am happy with that.  When I built a V class destoyer Verulam they were also similarly positioned and no affect on sailing.  The only concern there may be is that you will need to ensure the ballasting is careful as the higher motors will affect the centre of gravity and stability so this needss to be compensated for.

[paul swainson]

Well, guys, having read all the great comments, I have looked again at the build and will try 1st to heat up the epoxy and remove the A frames, and then lower the prop shafts,  then re shape the A frames to suit the space between the lower edge of the hull and the underside of the prop shaft.   I have noticed because I used fibre glass matting placed between the hull and the shaft; its stops the shaft from resting on the front edge of the cut out and this would lower the shaft by another cm, but due to the size of the prop shaft I will need to watch the clearance for the props.   The space from the top of the motor to the under side of the deck would have been less the 10mm so must lower them to make sense of the propulsion of the ship. 

[paul swainson]

My First attempted has been OK but will need a second attempted to ensure the prop shafts remain in the final poison.  See attached photos, as during the night the left side has moved slightly away from the re shaped A frame.  This time will place a weight on the connection plate until the epoxy has reset. 

[paul swainson]

This is what I like about this site, the years of experience is there with good advise to assist a new moulder to make a great model and feel that every one else has helped in some small part to achieve his or her goal.   Once again thanks gents you are all worth a gold medal for the help you give.  Paul.

[paul swainson]

Well the prop shafts are now in place and I am happy at the height they are.   So made up my motor tray and dry fitted and checked for alignment.   Made up battery tray and holder for the two ECU's and the RX battery.   Place them all in a small seat pad and gut out the shape.   The rudder system is in so all that is required is to wire up the motors and connect all the cables and secure using sticky clips along the each side of the hull.   Then I can start to bond in the deck temp plates and side and cross supports.  Going well.