Topic: MiMi build

[tugboatfred]

Page 2 of my MiMi build.
I ended up trimming the wheelhouse deck by about 3/16 inch off the bottom just so it would clear the motors and the ESC and installing the battery in the bow. The hollow styrene square tubes  were used to make it a removable assembly  with the front deck assembly and joins parts together. I also cemented the wind screen to that and is fairly robust.

[tugboatfred]

Page 3 of my MiMi build.
The wheelhouse cockpit assembly requires that parts be square. Here is the method I used.
I used some 1-2-3 machining blocks which are accurate for being square in all sides. I used small magnets to hold the sides while the adhesive dries to ensure they are truly square to the base part.

[tugboatfred]

Page 4 of my MiMi build.
Since the battery is now in the bow, the deck(s) now had to be removable rather than glued down. To keep it in place, I made a piece of ¼ inch square styrene to hold 3 small rare earth magnets.

I then CA glued a razor blade for the magnets to grab. The other plastic is ¼ inch styrene to keep the deck from bowing and hold it in place while running.

[tugboatfred]

This is the main gun. The arrow points to the breech opening handle. The instructions did not indicate the location or the part but this is the correct location of it. It is a new kit so be forgiving.

I made a shell container to place next to the gun once it is mounted on the deck. I made it from styrene.  You refer to is as plasticard I believe . Just my personal idea.

[tugboatfred]

As I was progressing, I found that the hull was a bit wider than the parts it needed to mate with. So I clamped it to the correct width and cut a piece of solid ¼ inch square styrene the correct width/hull contour and glued it in place. I let the adhesive dry overnight to ensure I had a good/solid bond with the hull sides.

[tugboatfred]

The instructions suggest putting a thin film of Vaseline on parts that should not have glue on them. I was concerned that any residue of Vaseline could give a problem later so I used thin Teflon tape to prevent that during the gluing process. That was strictly a personal preference. The Vaseline would most likely have worked very well. I went this direction because I was not comfortable with cutting that beautiful printed wood per the suggested instructions yet still have the rear deck removable for access to the rudder servo.
This is what I ended up with and the weight of the metal parts still keeps everything in place.

[tugboatfred]

Since I was also concerned about the possible water ingress via the 2 portholes, I decided to use parts of brass eyelets to simulate the portholes. In subsequent pictures, you will see I painted those flat gray, glued them to the hull and then used permanent markers to make the center black. I could have put a sealant in the porthole opening but decided to go this route. Again a personal preference.

[tugboatfred]

I was also not comfortable with taking the mahogany square strip for the hull fender and laying out the curve on cardboard to form it. So I clamped them in place on the hull one at a time and then used (sparingly) ultra thin CA applied to the wood. It soaked in nicely and will keep the wood in good shape and it now truly follows the hull contours too.

[tugboatfred]

So here she is finished.

[tugboatfred]

Here are the front sections (as one piece) removed for battery access.

The awning well deck is also removable for now pretty much total access to all gear inside the hull.

A wonderful and fun kit to build!

[colin]

Looks like a job well done.. 

I think I have mentioned this before somewhere..

I have this model sitting on my shelf to be built, so I will be able to compare notes.. 

Last year at the Dean’s Opendays I had the pleasure of being able to sail this boat on the test pond, one thing I did notice was the size of the turning circle (rather large) and because I would like to use this model on steering competitions I will add a second rudder..
 

[tugboatfred]

I too was concerned about that since it had one rudder and not behind a prop. I also left off the skegs. So I put the rudder push rod in a servo arm further away from its center and the rudder arm on the rudder tiller closer to its rotation point. That way it gave a larger rudder throw. It has a fairly tight turn now although not shown on the video. You may want to consider/play with that idea.

[tugboatfred]

I just noticed I had not included page 1 of my build. My apologies so here it is.

Here is how she looks so far and I just had an awakening moment. Building the aft deck and the wheelhouse cockpit, I suddenly realized that those fit INSIDE the hull! My arrangement did not allow those to fit deep enough so have to change that layout drastically! Senior moment?
The Green piece you see on the right is one of those plastic clips used to hold a plastic bag closed. Works well to keep cabling organized and tidy.
I used solid couplings to connect the drive motors to the prop shafts. Quiet and won't sling off at higher speeds. They also help with the motor/shaft alignment during installation. Also,the battery location in the finished boat is now in the bow. I put 2 wheel lead weights in the stern for ballast.