Topic: HMS Zulu build

[ship's doctor]

An alternative is the John Haynes or Deans single etched stanchions- I think one sheet has 100-200, for about ?10, when painted these have the rounded 3D appearance. These can also be cut down to give half-height stanchions etc.

James 

[radio joe]

Thanks James, these would be a reasonable alterative and worth considering, I've got a few months to think about it.  Joe

[radio joe]

Because Zulu is quite large with a single shaft I've decided to fit a slightly larger 5 skewed bladed prop and the generic rudder in the kit would in my opinion look a little small, having done a search for a suitable rudder I could not find one that matched the angle of the hull, so I thought I'd have a go at making one and I'm quite pleased with it,  photos attached for anyone new to the hobby who may be interested, 3 pieces of plasticard laminated over the shaft with epoxy resin, placed between two pieces of smooth poly to stop it sticking when excess resin runs out and weighted down over night, then trimmed around the edges and sanded to a profile and smoothed with fine wet/dry paper, and  made a tiller arm to complete it.

[andy]

Looking good there Joe. I can see that the kit has been upgraded since I purchased it back in 1987.  Always good to see a manufacture keeping his product line up to date..

Andy

[colin]

now i wonder if Joe copied they way i did my ruder for the Furie...   

but that's basic modeling ... or was that modding..     

[radio joe]

Hi Dave, I scratch built this pilot boat many years ago, built in plywood and 3 feet long with a 600 motor with 2 to 1 reduction gearbox swinging a 50 mm prop, she still runs today, but obviously not the great detail of the Deans boats.

Hi Colin, That sounds like great minds think alike to me.  Joe

[colin]

Hi Colin, That sounds like great minds think alike to me.  Joe

you could well be right there   

[radio joe]

The bow has raised shapes to indicate the anchor stowage's with no mention of these in the instruction sheets, I thought this is one of those areas where you have to use your intuition,  as the 81's had recessed anchor stowage's with a curved rim at the bottom my 81 has to have them as well, like most of the members of the forum I try to build as close to the real ship as I can, The shapes on the bow looked to be the right  size so I cut out the part marked in pencil and left the bit at the bottom to build the lip, and with a few bits of scrap plisticard formed the "well" ,a bit of filler at the bottom formed the curved rims, As always here's some pics that might help the newbies to the hobby.  Joe.

[Dennis]

Hey Joe, looks like she coming along rather well. Nice clean job and like the recessed stowages. It gives it that look of realism. 

[swiftdoc]

Hi Joe, fine build as always from you If you continue like you began you will need another kit for the long winter evenings
Kind regards - Arno

[colin]

have to agree with Arno      

[radio joe]

Yes I think you are both right, I must learn to slow down but it's hard when you enjoy what you are doing    Joe

[Tanzy]

And as a newbie with the same model. . Who will start when those long winter nights do . . Keep the pictures coming, a great inspiration especially as the anchors are  not mentioned and I would not of thought to do it. Following and admiring with great interest, thanks Joe. 

[radio joe]

Hi Tanzy. If the photos help you that's great, but do bare in mind if you are building the same kit that what you see in the photos is not the same as the instructions, I tend to do my own thing when fitting out the hull with bulkheads, R/C gear etc. and use the instruction sheets as a guide to the superstructure assemblies.
I use scraps of deck plastic to position deck supports without the need to use a guide line, the spacers and support are tacked in place with thin cyrno and epoxy applied to the under side of the deck support, when set the spacers can be levered off with small chisel; and made a start on the open bulkheads.  Joe.

[Tanzy]

Thanks Joe,  your pictures show the alternative methods that I would not of thought of and your way seems easier.  I would of followed the instuctions to the letter. It would take years of experience and builds to pick up what you are showing us newbies, it is now our choice which way to do it. As long as you don't mind posting the pictures and methods that is.

Many thanks.
Tanzy