Author Topic: Robert E Peary Build  (Read 26058 times)

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arrowhead

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Re: Robert E Peary Build
« Reply #15 on: 03 September 2010, 21:39:13 »
I had the same concerns.

I don't know if it was the correct way to do it, but I put a layer of Bondo - auto body filler - on it first to build it up a little. It is a 2 part epoxy system that dries very hard, but easy to sand.  I used the same material to hold the stuffing box in place.

Seemed to work OK for me,

Another thing I have learned is to cut the parts a little over sized and then sand them to fit if necessary.

You can always take more off, but you can't put it back on.

Later,

Bill M

Alejandro

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Re: Robert E Peary Build
« Reply #16 on: 04 September 2010, 22:12:45 »
Many thanks for your helpful reply.  I will try it and hope that the body filler will stick to the several nearly smooth areas of the bulkheads I achieved after hours of sanding. Seems daft to have to do this when you are following the instructions to the letter!

Cheers

Alejandro

Offline colin

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Re: Robert E Peary Build
« Reply #17 on: 06 September 2010, 12:09:40 »
you did it right Bill... first of all the body filler to fill in the humps and bumps, then sand it down, if necessary then add more filler..
« Last Edit: 07 September 2010, 09:33:21 by colin »

arrowhead

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Re: Robert E Peary Build
« Reply #18 on: 06 September 2010, 20:03:46 »
I'm still hard t work, but nothing really new to post as pictures.

I had never worked with styrene (plastic) before and was  bit concerned about working with this material.

I have found that it is very easy to work with and even sands very well.

I am in the process of building the superstructure.

I wanted to build it first to make sure I get the deck properly fitted.

So far so good.  I have found out that I need to cut all the styrene parts on the outside of the printed lines and then sand for that perfect fit.  Seems to work out fine.

Since I backed the 1.5mm styrene deck with 1/8 (3mm) plywood I don't think I will need all the cross members.  I might put them in anyhow just to be on the safe side.

I was also concerned about the strength of the rudder post installation.

I made a wood dam and then filled it in with  epoxy to the top of the rudder post.  It won't go anywhere now for sure.  I got the idea from another customer's build on this forum.

I have made extensive use of Bondo. I will use it to reinforce the bow to help in any collisions I might have.

I will post pictures when there is more to show.

arrowhead

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Re: Robert E Peary Build
« Reply #19 on: 12 September 2010, 15:18:04 »
I am working on building the superstructure.

Have completed all the deck levels and just did test fit bridge front.

Either I have made the superstructure too narrow or the bridge front, as drawn on the styrene is too wide.

Has anyone else that has built this model had the same problem?

Thanks much
------------------------------------------------------
i have edited as wished.. regards Colin
« Last Edit: 12 September 2010, 18:40:01 by colin »

Offline colin

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Re: Robert E Peary Build
« Reply #20 on: 12 September 2010, 18:59:43 »
i think you would be better of contacting the Workshops... on this one...

it would interest me what the plans measurements are for the width of the Superstructure!
gluing plastic in a corner can be confusing;
gluing the parts to gether on the inside edge of the side elements, you could end up 2 mm wider than should be.
gluing the parts on the outside edge of the side elements then you end up 2 mm narrower than should be..

although to much plastic can always be sanded down

arrowhead

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Re: Robert E Peary Build
« Reply #21 on: 12 September 2010, 20:05:06 »
Thanks Colin

You can see in the attached pictures that the beam of the ship plans measures about 18mm.

The beam on the ship deck styrene itself messures 20mm which seems to be right.

The bridge front assembly is also 20mm which seems right.

All measurements give or take a mm.

Forgive me when I give the measurements.  On this side of the Pond we haven't caught up with the rest of the world in our systems of measurement.

I think the problem is that the wheelhouse front is drawn too wide on the styrene.

The main midship superstructure is the same as it is shown on the plans also.

Notice that the outer portholes on the midship superstructure fall right on the side pieces.

How do I contact the Workshop you referenced?

Believe me I an not complaining in the least.   I know you think I am but, I just don't see how this all fits together and I want to build a model that is as close to scale as I can.

I am really just one of the good guys (I think) and a serious modeler.

Later,

Bill M

« Last Edit: 12 September 2010, 20:09:44 by arrowhead »

Offline colin

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Re: Robert E Peary Build
« Reply #22 on: 13 September 2010, 06:04:09 »
you can contact the Workshops on the above Phone number and the call will be passed through to the workshops or using email contact(at)deansmarine.co.uk, the mail will also be passed on to the workshops.

i am a little confused my self... but as i have mentioned before i have never built this kit, these are my observation and the common most errors made when building a Deans Kit.
normally the discrepancy would be a couple of millimeters and up to 10 because of cutting the plastic on the inside of the lines then gluing the part together wrongly as previously stated.

but the question still remains, what are the measurements of the superstructure width on the plans, your built superstructure is 110mm wide, does that correspond to the plans?

taking a look at some of the Build Photos P15 and P16 would lead me to suggest that your superstructure is to narrow!
but what the hell do i know...

arrowhead

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Re: Robert E Peary Build
« Reply #23 on: 13 September 2010, 16:02:33 »
Hi Colin,

I just got an Email from Deans.

The extra width is a wind screen that is supposed to extend out.

It wasn't clear on the instructions and a customer build model pictures that Deans sent me didn't show this.

They sent me pictures of their Deans build and I could see it very clearly.

Looks like all is good except for the two outside porthole locations, but I will just move them in a bit.

The reply from Deans said they will add the pictures they sent me to the build CD file and amend the insructions on this point.

I always try to cut on the very outside of the lines on each part so it gives me room to work with. 

I never know which way to glue the corners together.  Which one is the goes on top of which.

For sure this might account for a couple of mm differences in a square piece, but should not be too much of an issue given the thickness of the styrene parts.

At any rate, thanks for your help.

Now I'm off to ballasting and then I can glue the deck on.

Later,

Bill M

Offline colin

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Re: Robert E Peary Build
« Reply #24 on: 13 September 2010, 18:09:13 »
good, that's sorted then.

await further photo's on your Build.

arrowhead

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Re: Robert E Peary Build
« Reply #25 on: 17 September 2010, 20:44:05 »
Just some progress pictures.
 
The blue tape is a temporary waterline for my ballasting.
 
Does the prop have to be completely submerged?  It looks like this model is going to take a LOT of ballast
 
I backed the 1.5 mm deck with 3mm plywood.
 
Discovered one problem with working with a model of this size however.  It won't fit in my bathtub.  Looks like I'm gong to have to see if my neighbor will let me use his swimming pool.
 
Again, I am finding the styrene very nice to work with.  I wasn't sure when I first look at the kit contents, but I like it now.
 
Later, 
 
Bill M

Offline karlgalster

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Re: Robert E Peary Build
« Reply #26 on: 18 September 2010, 10:18:30 »
Coming along very well. Your decision to support the styrene deck with plywood will be very beneficial. It may be heavy but I would go for the loaded waterline. Unloaded would look good but might be a bit "tender" :smiley1:
Robin

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Re: Robert E Peary Build
« Reply #27 on: 20 September 2010, 08:19:29 »
The prop will indeed require to be fully submerged.
 
It would be benefical to make as much as the ballast removable as possible, and Yes it going to take alot of weight. You might want to run a keel line (long bit of wood) along the base on the inside of the hull whilst the deck is off, this will help to displace some of the stress that will be induced when removing the Hull from the water.
Model looks fantastic so far.
 
Stephen.

arrowhead

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Re: Robert E Peary Build
« Reply #28 on: 20 September 2010, 15:58:16 »
Hi Stephen,
 
I did put the strip of wood in the hull as you suggested.
 
It is part of the instructions that come with the kit.
 
I also reinforced it with a 3 inch strip of fiberglass tape.
 
I hope it will be enough.
 
I am going to take your suggestion and make a lot of the ballast removeable.
 
I bet it is going to take 20 pounds or more.
 
I saw on another web site that a guy had added water ballast tanks with their own pumps so they would fill from the pond and then empty the same way.  I don't think I will do that, but it sure looked like a neat idea.
 
Thanks again for your help and input.
 
Later,
 
Bill M

Offline colin

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Re: Robert E Peary Build
« Reply #29 on: 20 September 2010, 19:35:47 »
you doing a grand job Bill  ^^^
 
and as Stephen says, the Prop needs to be completely submerged, otherwise your not going to have to full function on thrust, plus the important part, hardly any breaking power.