Topic: HMS Javalin

[hotjava]

Tom,

Great advice with the plumbers solder.  I'll definitely give that a try.  I had been using aluminum foil and unless I use the really thick stuff, it's very difficult to get the right shape.

Take care and thanks for sharing the build!
Oliver

[hotjava]

Hi Tom,

I'm admiring your the prop shaft work and wondered how you determined the position of the shaft supports.  I'm using the kit supplied A frames and I don't have the "dimples" in the hull to mark where the A frame supports would go.

So, I'm using the plans supplied with the kit and even with that, I'm eyeballing it's location.

Robin, on your HMS Kelly, how did you determine the position of the shaft support?

I'm a little hesitant to drill anything at the moment!

Thanks!
Oliver

Hey gents here is a couple more pics of my progress. the struts for the shaft support is in place.  sorry it took so long for more pics, I had some camara issue's and couldent post
  enjoy   Tom

[karlgalster]

Hi Oliver,
Prop shaft A frames position. I can't recall a problem with mine. I have just dug out the kit build instructions and they do refer to "drill out A frame markings in the hull" so presumably yours are omitted?
If it helps I have just measured my actual hull - A-frame centres (sorry centers) are 60mm from the extreme end of the stern. My prop shaft ends are 6mm from the A-frame centres. The fixing is important because if you get it wrong the props are in danger of  fouling the rudder on helm limits.
If you have doubts fit the rudder first and the prop shaft holes in the hull and you should be able to arrive at a satisfactory position for the A-frames before bonding in the shafts. Hope this helps. Remember the small holes for the A-frames can always be filled if wrong - the crucial thing is to be sure of everything before bonding in the prop shafts as that is difficult to undo! By the way I did what DM suggested and replaced the A-frame pins with brass wire for added strength.
Another thought - probably posted somewhere before - I more or less doubled the size of the rudder as with the original rudder teh model has a VERY BIG turning circle
Robin

[hotjava]

Hi Robin,

Thanks for the quick reply.

Yes, I don't have the A frame markings.  I did eyeball it to 67mm prior to reading your reply.  Let me get it to 60mm as you've recommended.  Yes, I too am using brass wire for the A frame pins.  On one of the A frames, the white metal post was missing to begin with.

Thanks so much for your help and advice!

Oliver

Hi Oliver,
Prop shaft A frames position. I can't recall a problem with mine. I have just dug out the kit build instructions and they do refer to "drill out A frame markings in the hull" so presumably yours are omitted?
If it helps I have just measured my actual hull - A-frame centres (sorry centers) are 60mm from the extreme end of the stern. My prop shaft ends are 6mm from the A-frame centres. The fixing is important because if you get it wrong the props are in danger of  fouling the rudder on helm limits.
If you have doubts fit the rudder first and the prop shaft holes in the hull and you should be able to arrive at a satisfactory position for the A-frames before bonding in the shafts. Hope this helps. Remember the small holes for the A-frames can always be filled if wrong - the crucial thing is to be sure of everything before bonding in the prop shafts as that is difficult to undo! By the way I did what DM suggested and replaced the A-frame pins with brass wire for added strength.
Another thought - probably posted somewhere before - I more or less doubled the size of the rudder as with the original rudder teh model has a VERY BIG turning circle
Robin

[Tommydean]

sorry Oliver i have been away for a coulpe days.  the distance from the prop blade tip to the bottom of the hull i used from the Deans kit drawings ( the stern view looking FWD). then i made my template out of styrene and drew everything onto my template. after i was satisfied with my measurements i traced everything onto my hull. take your time and it will come out right IF you cut into the hull and the cut is in the wrong place DONT PANIC the cut can EASILY be fixed with some polyester resin  hope the pic shows a good view of what i did. you can see the index spots for the kit shaft support struts in the photo and how i modified the placement for my own shaft supports struts. i also
found a center line on the hull and used that as a "baseline" to measure from.
   Tom

[Tommydean]

also i have installed my rudder servo and linkage.

[hotjava]

Hi Tom,

The picture was very helpful.  What's the distance between the center of your props?  Because I didn't realize that the stern view of the prop and A frame was found in the instructions and not on the plans ( this will teach me to read the instructions! ), mine turned out to be 48mm from prop center to center.  The instructions suggest 40mm.  Oops! 

Thanks!
Oliver

sorry Oliver i have been away for a coulpe days.  the distance from the prop blade tip to the bottom of the hull i used from the Deans kit drawings ( the stern view looking FWD). then i made my template out of styrene and drew everything onto my template. after i was satisfied with my measurements i traced everything onto my hull. take your time and it will come out right IF you cut into the hull and the cut is in the wrong place DONT PANIC the cut can EASILY be fixed with some polyester resin  hope the pic shows a good view of what i did. you can see the index spots for the kit shaft support struts in the photo and how i modified the placement for my own shaft supports struts. i also
found a center line on the hull and used that as a "baseline" to measure from.
   Tom

[Tommydean]

40mm sounds about right.   but notice i modified the prop shaft supports and placement of them somewhat to fit a more prototypical look. so i had to move things around so to speak. the prop shaft housings penetrate the hull right were the markings were molded in the hull
so there was no problem with that. also i have used the book "The Kellys" by Christopher
Langtree almost constantly for reference.  post some pics on your build thread we would like to see your progress
                            Tom

[Tommydean]

here is the latest work on the engineering spaces. i built the motor housing out of polycarbonate then measured some stand-off's i bought at an electronics store and samwitched the motors into a kinda of "power unit" i can remove if i have to. i got the idea
from looking at modern armored vehicles like the M1 Abrams and the Leopard 2.
    Tom

[hotjava]

Hi Tom,

Wonderful idea.  You're model is very well thought out.  I lack the tools and the modeling skills to pull off anything like this.  Look forward to more of your builds and your ideas.

Have fun!
Oliver

here is the latest work on the engineering spaces. i built the motor housing out of polycarbonate then measured some stand-off's i bought at an electronics store and samwitched the motors into a kinda of "power unit" i can remove if i have to. i got the idea
from looking at modern armored vehicles like the M1 Abrams and the Leopard 2.
    Tom

[Tommydean]

Thanks Oliver....I think i will have to redesign it though. that was intended for a 2:1 belt reduction
and the motors are only 8000 rpm motors. some of the other guys did the same reduction with the same props and said the ships speed was to low so i will do direct drive and see how it works.
   Tom

[DickyD]

Hi Tom
I went direct drive on my Javelin using two Deans Kestrel motors.
Looks great on the water and runs about scale speed if not a little more.

[Tommydean]

Im trying direct drive first with these motors.    i am runnin these on 12volt   i guess i can lower the voltage if i have to high RPM's  though.  thanks Dick

[Tommydean]

Hey guys finally did some work on some detail. was able to make the main guns look a bit more scale

[DickyD]

Im trying direct drive first with these motors.    i am runnin these on 12volt   i guess i can lower the voltage if i have to high RPM's  though.  thanks Dick

I am running mine on 7.2V