Topic: HMS Javalin

[karlgalster]

your Javelin is looking very solid. any particular reason for choosing HMS javelin?
Robin

[Tommydean]

Yes the hull is very solid and I have still been able to keep the weight down as well. next i am designing the drive system and it will be a twin belt drive.  when I bought the kit I dident know much about UK DD's. I did know there was some famous captians and they were very good at sub hunting "HMS Starling"?  I was thinking about the HMS Kelly but i desided on the Javalin because it survived the war (loosing the bow and stern and still making it home)
later a friend of mine that is in our model club here in Denver told me he had seen the Javalin
in malta when he was on the HMS Orwell i think? or the HMS Zeypher one of the two.  Deans Marine also had a reputation here in the states as well. i like the molded detail in the hull
right out of the box!
here is a pic of everything glued into place and notice the ball bearings in the end of the
prop shaft housings

[Tommydean]

Well i have been doing some detail work, i have been waiting on parts for my drive system.
I started with the galley. instead of the cast metal vents/screens i made my own. i made the jig out of aluminum and used K&S photo etch screen and strip plastic. this was my first try at this and it turned out good.

[Tommydean]

here is another view of the galley in the top view i put ducting inside the galley for the small computer fan i am going to mount to the buttom of the galley seen in the backround. i need some air to move through the hull to keep it cool in the summer

[Tommydean]

Here is the work to date on the forward deckhouse and bridge. i used John Haynes 12" port holes for the deck house and for the bridge i used Tom's Model Works 16" port holes. after i glued them in place i put the windows in made from thin polycarb I punched out.

the skipper is giving his approval on the work so far!

[Belgium Crazy Team]

well done...

For the cooling part, I tend to close everything (make sure that it's more or less waterthight) and then circulate the trapped air inside...
Sometimes we do like sailing in "rough weather"
http://www.deansmarine.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=79.msg170#msg170

[Mark]

I am suprised you need to push air through the model, I have built many models and never found the need to pump cooling air into them?

The detail work is looking very good.

Mark

[Tommydean]

Mark i wish i dident have to, but the color of the deck is a darker color? i think ..not sure...
out here in Denver the sun is intence in the summer and the temp can get above 100degrees
some times. i might have to move the fan back aft for a better draft. i will be using the stack as the vent so the galley is a little to close to the stack. the reason i chose the galley  for the vent was it is behind the fwd supper structure and my thinking was the galley wouldent take the brunt of a wave if i was sailing the north atlantic so to speak. i have other ideas for this as well. here is a pic of the windows i made

[karlgalster]

I agree with Mark Tommydean about the need to cool the interior of the hull. I am not sure what motors you are using but I find the Deans Marine motors recommended are very efficient and provide enough power economically when fitted to the destroyer hulls and do not run hot so perhaps you are being a bit over pessimistic? I do like your ventillation panels - much improvement on the kit heavy white metal fittings. Presumably you intend mounting the same vents under the central pom-pom platform as well (for visual effect not hull cooling purposes).  Your superstructure construction also looks very good.
Robin

[Tommydean]

Hey Robin I am using 8000 series motors from pittman here in the states and are popular motors for ships. i will have a 2 to 1 belt reduction to the prop shafts so the heat from the motors wont be an issue. what i am conserned about is the direct sunlight onto the styrene
main deck, two summers ago one of the guys in our club had some of the parts warp due to
direct sun light. I am also thinking about tracing the main deck on to either thin polycarb or
the thin red fibre glass sheet i used for the bulkheads in previous pictures. will post a pic of my motor section soon.
           Tom

[karlgalster]

Hi Tom
I understand. I posted a thread here some time ago about an Australian modeller of a Deans Marine warship who had a deck split with the heat of the Oz sun. His solution was to use a plywood deck. I suppose you could paint the model white or very light gray but I guess that would not be appropriate for the deck.
Robin

[Tommydean]

Yes I saw that thread that was very good things like that to keep in mind when building
our prized models.
                         Tom

[hotjava]

Hi Tommy,

Oh nice!  I'm re-starting my HMS Kelly so your thread will come in handy.  Did you find that when installing the frames and bulwarks, that they required a lot of sanding to fit properly?  In addition, the instructions and pictures supplied with the kit didn't match what was printed on the plywood.

I'm having to do a lot of sanding and fitting before gluing.  I wonder whether your experience or Robin's was like that.

I've found that if I cut out the deck and use that as a template that helps immensely for fitting.

Thanks!
Oliver

[hotjava]

Hi Tom,

One additional question.  I noticed that you had additional bulkheads.  I'm hoping that I'm not missing anything from the kit.

I've attached a photo.

Thanks!
Oliver

[Tommydean]

Oliver Yes on all three. for the bulkheads i had modified and were not part of the instructions,
I also used fibreglass sheet in 1/16" for all bulkheads and deck supports i bought from McMaster Carr. it is cheap and is very nice to shape and sand just ware a mask an go out side to sand when you do the sanding or the Mrs. wont like it much .remember shaping the bulkheads to fit is a given when working with polyester resin layup hulls. when the resin cures it generates a little heat and it slightly warps the hull in places and there in is were the fun is you can easly "massash" into shape by placing bulkheads in various places in the hull.
if you would like a quick way to make templates get some plumers solder, the thick stuff and mark your spot in the hull were the bulkhead is to go then form the solder to the inside of the hull then pull out your shaped solder gently and trace around the outside of the solder and presto! bulkhead to a shape that is close for sanding.

     Tom