Topic: Glueing Styrene / Drying Time !

[Andrée]

Hi!

I wonder if its matter which side of the styrene cards, you use when glueing. One side is glossy and the other one is matt. Are both sides strong enough, I'm using "Deluxe Plastic Magic"

/Andrée

[colin]

i have never noticed that plastic card has a glossy and mat side 

when i have cut the piece that i require i sand both sides anyway 

so i guess it does not really matter which side you glue. 

i mainly use UHU Plast.

[Belgium Crazy Team]

I alsways sand the piece before I glue.
It's better for 2 reasons:
1. Glue
2. Paint (this won't be comming off when you slightly bend the piece)

Kurt

[Andrée]

Hi again!

Thanks for your help. I have never worked with styrene before, that's why I'm not sure about this. In the manual, Deans Marine recommended "Deluxe plastic magic" for styrene works. Is this glue strong enough, it has a very low viscosity so I believe it's difficult to work with

/Andrée

[colin]

all plastic glues are reasonably thin (runny)

i have never used deluxe plastic magic, but i have seen some others using it and it bonds like any other plastic glues.

http://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/pages/specialistproducts.htm

as there is no real description on the manufactures website theres not much more i could say about this product.

[Andrée]

Hi,

Does anyone know something about the drying time for "Deluxe plastic magic"? I have tried it on a flat surface and it seems to dry almost directly. However it seems like the merge is not strong enough when I'm trying to separate the two parts again. Are these adhesives actually good if you want a strong bonding?

How do you work with your plastic adhesive, it is very thin?

/Andrée 

[colin]

as i don't use Deluxe plastic magic i could not answer your question, but i have seen the bonding of the plastic at a show i could not pull it apart, so i would guess the bonding is strong, but then your saying its not ??

most plastic glues attack the plastic and make it soft, so the two parts can weld together, also most plastic glues dry quickly but the plastic is still soft, for the plastic to harden again, it takes about 24 hours.

as far as i know all plastic adhesives are very thin, you can even apply some of them with a paint brush.

[Andrée]

Hi Colin,

Thanks for you input

You say that it may take up to 24 hours before the glue and plastic are totally dry. I can't find any information about the drying time for "Plastic magic", but I have looked at a similar product from Humbrol "Liquid poly", which takes about 1 hour to dry. I don't know if this is just the time for the glue to dry or if it involves the plastic as well. In the test I made, I tried to separete the two parts after about 1 ½ hour, but perhaps this was to early?

/Andrée 

[colin]

i hope this might answer your question and put your mind at ease, this is the glue that i use, this information can be found on the UHU website;

UHU plast

Materials:
For plastic models, and in conjunction with other materials such as wood, cardboard, paper, etc.

Instructions:
Thoroughly clean the surfaces to be stuck together (dry, free of dust and grease).
Apply a thin layer of adhesive to one side; place the parts together and hold in place for a short time. Don't wipe off remnants of adhesive while wet; wait until it has hardened and remove using a sharp knife or a cutter, then rub lightly with glass paper. Firm after approx. 5 to 10 minutes; final strength achieved after 24 hours. For thin plastic, apply a very thin layer of adhesive.
 

[karlgalster]

Andree, I use Humbrol Polyweld. It dries as you say inside an hour to give a firm bond but I leave it 24 hours before finishing the join with wet and dry. One problem I have found is that when bonding pieces at right angles one needs to keep the two pieces held at right angle for a long time, maybe 24 hours. I have found that if you tape pieces at right angle, apply the polyweld then after it all appears firm after say an hour I find that next day the two pieces are no longer at the nice right angles I left them at! It is possible this may be due to my preparation not having the plastic edges exactly right angles - but none of us is perfect. So I would recommend leaving the tape etc for 24 hours before further work although of course it is very tempting to continue working as soon as possible.
Robin

[Andrée]

Hi,

Thanks to both of you, I appreciate your help.
Always when working with glues I'm not convinced that it will actually be strong enough to support the construction. Robin, your glue seems to be the same as mine so perhaps it is correct that you have to wait for about 24 hours until it is really dry. The interesting question is if you trust the result, is it strong enough and is there no risk for separation after some years?

Does Cyno-acrylate work on styrene?

/Andrée

[colin]

i use a total of 4 Glues;

UHU Plast : for Styrene to Styrene
UHU Plus Acrylit : for Propshafts, Bulkheads, basically anything that gets glued into the Hull
UHU Plus Endfest 300 : for Decks to Hull, Wood decking to Styrene
UHU Cyno : for anything else (Metal to Metal / Styrene to Fiberglass etc)

with these glues i have never had any ship fall apart on me... and i have been using these glues for some 20 od years.

as me and Robin have said, wait the 24 Hrs before continuing the next step on the construction.

i always have about 10 Assemblies going all at one time, but they are all at different stages, some have just been glued, some have been glued for over 24 hours and need trimming and sanding, and some of the assemblies once sanded, then get the next part glued onto them, this way, you always have something to do, and you give the glue and plastic enough time to cure and go hard again.

[Mark]

I have to agree, work on multiple parts at a time and always have an area where you can put parts to one side to let them dry throughly, build large assemblies form small assemblies that have had time to bond. It may seem you are getting no where for a while, but then everything starts to come together.

Mark

[Andrée]

How do you apply your liquid cement? Do you use the capillary force when the pieces are together or do you apply a layer on one surface and then put them together? I have tried the first method on several pieces but I think this technique is too uncertain. You have no control of the liquid and you can't be sure that it has bond or not, you can't try to pull all pieces apart either, just to be sure it's strong enough.

Experiences would be great

/Andr?e

[karlgalster]

I use the capilliary action method. I have found the styrene glue will flow very well along the joint. Almost too well in fact - its gets everywhere. The only time I apply directly to a surface with a brush is when a large surface is to be glued. For example a solid styrene box onto a deck.
Robin