Topic: Glueing Styrene / Drying Time !

[Andrée]

Okey, this method doesn't work with me, still I have a nearly perfect edge. What kind of liquid do you use? Is it wrong to make this the way I described in the second method, adding liquid before the merge?

[colin]

i apply the glue to the surfaces that i would like to glue and then press them together, noticing that some times the glue uses out of the joint seeing the plastic melt under the chemical reaction of the glue.

[Mark]

I agree, the capillary method is best, but do not use a loaded brush, always wipe it a bit against the bottle neck to stop the joint becoming flooded.

Mark

[Andrée]

Okey, but when you have long joints is it not a problem to keep the liquid wet until you have put the pieces together? I assume that you have a lot?

[Mark]

If you hold the peices together, then run the brush gentley along the length then the glue will flow into the joint, but you must have a good match to the parts.

Mark

[karlgalster]

Andree,
I agree with Mark, of course you have to have a good match between the parts that you are joining together but you would need that with the brushing method as well.

So you need your pre-glued assembly to be taped up and/or weighted on your work surface in the such a way that it is in the shape you want it to be after the glue has dried. Then apply a light amount of glue (I use Humbrol Polyweld but I do not know if it is better or worse than other suppliers'  products) along the places where you have butt joins. Avoid getting any glue near any masking tape you are using as I find the capilliary action causes the glue to get under the tape and this results in an area of plastic suffering surface melting - not nice! After the first phase of glueing has dried, remove  any tape and add glue to any lengths of butt joins you avoided in the first phase.
Robin

[Andrée]

I make it exactly the way you describe it and the pieces have a nearly perfect match, I can't understand why it doesn't work. I think I will try to do it in the same way as Colin does, then you have a lot more control over the liquid. Do you believe the joint can be as strong as it would be with your method?

[colin]

i would not like to take a guess wether any joint is stronger than any other... wether my method is used or Marks and Robins

i apply the glue to the edge of the two parts that i want to glue together and then i press the two parts together, one sees the capillary action straight away, as the plastic melts, this way some of the unevenness in a bit of plastic disappears.  this method works for me.

which can probably be seen in my building threads;
Furie ; http://www.deansmarine.co.uk/index.php?topic=66.0
Lis Terkol ; http://www.deansmarine.co.uk/index.php?topic=51.0
Inflexible ; http://www.deansmarine.co.uk/index.php?topic=144.0

[Tommydean]

I have started on some of the supperstructure while waiting on parts for the engineering section of the build. I also have found that the capillary method works good. i also tryed some different glues that all work good  Ten-x, plastruct glue, and Tamiya glue in the green bottle and i have to say that little brush in the tamiya glue is modeling bliss!!!!!! that little brush puts the right amount of glue in the right place