Topic: Houtepen Build

[Fred Keulen]

This is my build of the Houtepen. Mostly like the plan but did make some changes to suit me. Also a video of it running on our pond on YouTube and can be viewed at: Houtepen Dutch Navy model boat - YouTube https://youtu.be/_NTB0b9edSE. I hope this will bring some joy to those interested and I welcome any suggestions and comments!
The first picture shows what I did to the prop shafts. I have mounted the stuffing boxes but the prop shafts are too long and the prop shaft threads will turn on the bearing end of the stuffing box. That will cause it to wear needlessly eventually. I trimmed the thread length to eliminate that.
The second picture indicates why I changed the prop shaft length.The motor end of it is also too long for the motors I intend to use which may cause flexing of it so cutting that to be closer to the end of the stuffing box.

Here is the rudder arm set up. I silver soldered two pieces of brass sheet to 3 mm aircraft wheel collars
The black item you see on the push rods is shrink sleeving. It is difficult to cut the push rods to the proper length and have the rudders at the correct angle. Cutting the push rods so they overlap once in the servo arm and rudder arm, align the rudders and shrink the sleeving. Then put a drop of CA on both ends of the sleeving to lock it in place.
More in the next posting.

[tugboatfred]

Rather than installing brushed motors, I used 2 brushless out runner micro motors. My favorite motor type. Great torque, efficient and long run time too. Yes, it does then take two ESC’s and a Y lead to the ESCs from the receiver but worth it to me.
I also used some brass couplers rather than the supplied tubing. Quieter, wont slip off and makes the correct alignment of the motors to the prop shaft easier to do and more accurate.

[tugboatfred]

I have used ¼ inch square tube for the deck supports. Light weight and strong enough to keep the deck from flexing. It was easier for me to do that for the deck supports rather than the styrene strips gluing to the hull. Had I done that, it may have made me trim the deck contour since the hull shape was a little smaller than the deck. Now the deck fits snugly because the hull was allowed to flex outward slightly. Good fit now.

[tugboatfred]

The deck house coaming was also made from the same tubing. The deck house fits snug on the deck, not tight so easy to remove for hull access yet won’t fall of easily. Just need to add the front and rear sections of it to assure water tight integrity.

[tugboatfred]

Moving along to the top side of it now. Since I am of Dutch descent, I did not care for the Gray roof of the pilot house so added this Dutch touch to it.

[tugboatfred]

This hull paint scheme was my personal choice.

[tugboatfred]

The mast has also had some changes. The red arrows show my additions

[tugboatfred]

That Dutch Navy flag I made. Found a picture of it, scaled it and printed it. I then sprayed the paper it was printed on with clear lacquer and let it dry for about 15 minutes. I then applied adhesive to the inside and attached it to the line.

[tugboatfred]

Some personal touches are that I used brass eyelets for the port holes. These I had a in my junk box and came with the older type of servo mounts. Perfect fit too.

I also used some braided stainless steel wire for the crane cabling. I used it so in a breeze, they would not be moving around.

[colin]

Nice build, I have this model sitting on my shelf in the waiting list to be built.. 

[tugboatfred]

Thanks Colin. You are a consummate builder yourself so that is  a flattering compliment. Thank you!!!!