Topic: Oliver's HMS Kelly

[hotjava]

Hi,

Hope all is well.  I'm progressing with the bow and here's what I have.

Bow
Based on locations of the non-slip patterns found on the plan, I traced these onto the bow and then I cemented microfibers - small styrene square rods which came with the kit - to the bow.  Using a #11 hobby knife, most of the rods were cut 10mm in length.  Applying a drop of Testors Model Master Liquid Cement to the top edge of a medicine cap and using a fine-nosed tweezer I picked up and swiped the rod over the cement which was then glued to the bow. 

Once all the non-slip rods were in place I allowed everything to dry overnight.  The next day I wet sanded with 400 grit sandpaper.  I only did this because the non-slip rods looked out of scale.  I next cleaned up the white metal hawse pipes, cut out their centers and superglued them into position.



The breakwater was next.  First, using a small drill press, I drilled out the holes for the six small triangles that make up the front support prior to cutting them out.  Then, I cut out the three pieces that make up the breakwater.  The front of the breakwater in my kit was shorter than what was found on the printed bow so I made a longer one.  I also extended the side supports.  I first glued the six triangle supports to the front of the breakwater and once dry, I glued the port and starboard supports.  Here is the basic breakwater dry fitted to the bow.



I'm going to study the additional details that Robin added to his breakwater and see if I can't do my best to repeat the same.  That's all for now.

Thanks for reading and happy building,
Oliver

 



 

[karlgalster]

Hi Oliver
You are making a very neat and clean job of your Kelly.  :)I know what you mean about the kit micro rod being a bit oversize - I did not use the kit rod at all I bought some strip from Evergreen who hail from Woodinville WA. They do an excellent range of various shapes of styrene extrusions. Saves the trouble of rubbing down from 1mmx1mm kit material.
Robin

[colin]

Slaters, a UK manufacture, also has lot of different sizes, mainly found in Model railway shops..

Assorted Microstrip packet; goes from 0.010" x 0.010" to 0.060" x 0.060" and near enough all sizes in between

and B.T.W

your doing a grand job Oliver.. 

[hotjava]

Hi Robin and Colin,

Thank you!  You are right.  It would have been easier to replace the kit supplied microfibers.  Robin, when I saw photos of your model, I wondered why your anti-slip patterns were so small!  On mine, I think even after sanding, they look rather large. 

Colin, I don't have access to Slaters styrene, but a model railroad shop nearby carries a full line of Evergreen styrene.  Going forward, I'll use thinner rods, but I'll leave what I have on. 

Have a nice day!
Oliver

[Belgium Crazy Team]

Just give it a light sand and it will look wonderfull.
good job!

[hotjava]

Hi,

Happy New Year Everyone!  I hope everyone is having a great New Year with lots of building and sailing opportunities!

Thanks for the advice "Belgium Crazy".  I sanded the anti-slip patterns and I'm satisfied with the results.

I haven't posted in a some time, but here are progress shots of the galley, the forward deck, the gun deck and the bridge without added details.



The forward deck, loosely fitted with the gun deck and the bridge



The forward deck loosely fitted on HMS Kelly



Undo and Redo After Done
As with all model building, measure carefully and think ahead.  Otherwise, you'll end up with having to undo and redo what you've done like me.

I constructed the galley first ( this is the "L" shaped structure ).  Then, after I test fitted the gun deck on top of the forward deck, I realized that the galley was taller than the forward deck.  To correct, I removed the top and placed it inside of the galley so that the gun deck would cover evenly.

Following the pattern on the deck, I opened and placed the coamings before completing the forward deck.  In hindsight, it would have been better to first build the forward structure and match that with the pattern on the deck.  For me, the opening for the forward deck turned out to be 4cm too forward so that the back did not touch the galley.  I simply moved the front coaming until they touched.

I think it all turned out pretty well.

Thanks for reading and happy building!
Oliver

[Tommydean]

looking good Oliver    I have to  play catch up now

[colin]

look very nice Oliver 

as you have mentioned, it does help to build the superstructure before opening out the deck... and allways think ahead.. 

[karlgalster]

Doing a really good job on the Kelly Oliver. 
Robin

[hotjava]

Thanks Tommy, Colin and Robin! 

I have appreciated all your help and advice.  One of the more challenging parts of the build is finding photos of the bridge.  Though the Christopher Langtree book is an excellent resource for the class, it lacks bridge drawings or photos.

I have been relying on the kit's plans, the photo CD and Robin's excellent model.

I did find John Haynes incredibly model of the HMS Ashanti, a Tribal Class Destoyer.  Even though that ship is a different class, the bridge "looks" similar ( I am making a big jump that they are similar! ). 

Do you know of any other resources for bridge drawings and photos?

Thank you again!
Oliver

[colin]

your welcome Oliver.

as most of you on here know, Warships are not my cupa-tea, so i would not know were to look, although John Lamberts Plans is always a good place to look, for that sort of thing.

[karlgalster]

You are right Oliver, details of the bridge equipment are not easy to find   The Langtree book does not provide much information at all. The JKN bridge equipment would probably have been very similar to the Tribals as the two classes were only about 1 year apart in build programmes. Most of the equipment would be identical or only a slight evolved version so you might as well base your bridge on the superb John Haynes model. Wonder where he got his information from?  Wish I had seen that model when I was building mine
Robin

[karlgalster]

PS use 0.25mm plastic for the extended edges around the bridge tops and the supports for them at right angles to the external sides of the bridge. Don't know what they are called or what their function is but from photos they look like they are made from thin sheet steel less than 1 inch thickness 96/1 scale that would be less than 0.25mm. Not sure what the kit uses but it will look too thick by far at anything greater than 0.5mm. You can use 1mm for everything except stuff where the plastic is displayed on edge and represents a sheet of steel (1mm at 96/1 scale is 3.8 inches!)
Robin

[ship's doctor]

I have this photo from when I was building HMS Tartar, a tribal class... maybe similar to the JKNs?

Hope this helps- excellent build so far!

James 

[hotjava]

Colin, Robin and James,

Thanks for the information! 

Colin, John Lambert has bridge plans for HMS Kelvin, but they're beyond my budget.  His featured plans in Christopher Langtree's book are gourgeous!   

Robin, thank you for the styrene advice.  I'll run over to the model train store as I don't have any 0.25mm sheet styrene.  Your model is helping immensely with my build!   I think you are right.  The bridges of the K/J/N and the Tribal classes "should be" about the same.  I can't imagine them being too different.

James, thanks for the picture.  It is indeed worth a thousand words!

Thanks again!
Oliver