Topic: Robert E Peary Build

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I am just starting the build on my Robert E Peary.

Not much accomplished so far.  I'm mostly assembling the materials that I think I will need.

I am going to give it a go in attaching a photo.

It shows the electronics I am planning to use.

Since I'm in the US my dealer is Harbor Models.

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I will not be using the motor shown, but will be using a Robbe geared motor.

I have attached a couple of pictures of some of the other models I have build.

I sure wish I could attend a Deans open house, but that sure isn't in the budget.

I am looking forward to any advice that any of you can give me during this project.

We don't have scale ship model clubs here like you all seem to have, but we do race RC boats.

The first picture is one of my racing boats along with a good looking guy that sails it.

I also build dollhouses for the granddaughters.

Later,

Bill M

[DickyD]

Hi Bill
Have you not thought of using the Deans motor for your model. I have used lots of these motors and on direct drive they are excellent. Silent and very economical on power.

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Thanks much, but, I just have not found a source for Deans motors, or any Deans stuff, here in the USA.

I wish I could.

If anyone knows of a US source please let me know.

 

[DickyD]

Does it cost to much to order from Deans Direct ?

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I'm not sure of what it would cost given the shipping charges, but I'm going to contact Deans and find out.

Thanks much for your help.

[Tommydean]

will harbor models order the motors for you?  they have alot of Deans kits and accessories as well?
  Tom

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Hi Tom,

I'm sure Harbor Models would order Deans accessories for me.

I have worked with them for years and they are very accommodating.

It's academic for now as I have the Robbe geared motor installed.

The Robbe looks a lot like yours.  I guess they are all made in China and maybe they just put different labels on them??

Anyhow, progress to date.

The hull has been cut to proper shape, the wood hull support has been installed.  I put a 3 inch fiberglass tape the length of the hull for additional strength.

The stuffing box and motor have been installed.

Working on the rudder installation now.  I wish it had a bigger diameter shaft and the process for attachment to the rudder support were a little more substantial.

I will be using 3/8 square basswood for the  deck supports and 1/2 inch square for some vertical supports I will put on the sides of the hulls to give the bulkheads additional support.

I will take the lead from one of the pictures I saw on the Deans web site and put a hardwood floor in the hull from the motor forward.

As Colin did, I will be adding extra bulkheads.

I backed the deck with 1/8 inch hardwood for additional strength.  I will use small brass screws to reinforce the glued attachment of the deck to the hull.

Is you can see, I tend to over build for strength.

Will post photos later.

 

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Progress update.

I have found out that I can't use hardwood for the longitudinal deck supports like I wanted to.

The hardwood is too hard to bend to the rise of the hull so I will use the balsa afterall.

I have added a plywood floor with cross members for support.  I have sectioned it off in compartments so I can add lead shot as ballast as needed.  I have used shot in the past, but add diluted white glue to bond it all together.

I have test fit the electronics and it seems like it will all work out OK.

Does anyone have any idea what the total ballast weight that will be needed?

Thanks much,

Bill

[colin]

Hi Bill,

looking at the description of the Peary, it says "Sailing weight 16kg"

so taking into account the weight of the model and fittings, i would say you will need about 10-14Kg of ballast.

minus the gubbins (battery, ESC, and radio) your still going to need about 5Kg of ballast.

but why put dead weight in when there might be more space for an other battery, its just a thought..!!

Note: i have never built this kit yet, this is just guess work according to the dimensions given and the expected weight of the gubbins.

[arrowhead]

Hi Colin,

Thanks for the suggestion.

An extra battery is something I will have to consider.  I never thought of it.
The battery I am using is 12 volt, 10.5 Amp Hr. so I should have plenty of power.

I will be running it through a 12 volt input control panel and will be using the 6 volt output to run the motor.

The one concern that I  have is that it might be top heavy hence the reason for putting the shot as low in the hull as possible. Any thoughts?

Although I am building this as a running model I expect it won't get run very much.

There just aren't that many model builders in my area which is a surprise to me since I live in a retirement community here in Las Vegas with over 7,000 homes. 

I wish we had as much activity as you all do in the UK with all the clubs.

Always,

Bill M

 

[colin]

if you are laying the battery on its side like in your photo "Elec Fit 8-22-10.JPG" then there will be no problems with top heavy, the battery will already be below the waterline.

but of course the lower you can go with the extra ballast, the better.

when i built my Liz Terkol, i placed 2 x 12V 4amp hr in the Hull lying down, so i had 12Volts and 8amps, i then only had to place a little extra ballast to trim her to her waterline.

[Tommydean]

Bill the only game on this side of the pond (so to speak) is " warship models underway"  I think i might have seen a post from sombody some time ago from Vegas over there. and then there are some submariners there as well.  It is a different world over here when it comes to R/C model ships
do like the ribs and keel you put in the bottom of your ship looking good.
   Tom

[hotjava]

Hi Bill,

Welcome!  I too am in the U.S.  The only supplier that I know of besides Harbor is Loyallhanna Dockyard.  However, I've never ordered anything from them.  I've always ordered direct from Deans.

I'm a newbie to Deans - just starting an HMS Kelly - but I'll help if I can.

Have fun and take care,
Oliver

[Alejandro]

I have just started the Peary kit, but am concerned about rubbing down the inside of the bulwarks to a smooth finish, as stated in the instructions.  Seems I will have rubbed right through the bulwarks before they are smooth, and if not there will be nothing left to give the suggested body filler any grip.
Also, my mould has a very poor capping band -- non-existent in some places and gobs of fibreglass at others.  I have just  upgraded from plastic kits so would appreciate any advice on the above before I potentially ruin the hull!