Topic: HMS Illustrious.

[radio joe]

Nice going Paul, keep up the good work, 
Joe

[paul swainson]

Thanks Joe, praise indeed.  I did enjoy that bit of work.  Just the detail to do later when more of the main hull has been completed.  I am now working on the position of the two outer proshafts positions and then installing the A frames.  They have very long legs as I could not tell how low down the prop would be until the centre prop was installed. I am trying to work out how to fit them and then mark the area to cut off before fixing in place. 

[paul swainson]

Well lets give you an up date on my build.  I started by looking at the plans for the hull and checked the hull for size and as we all know the hulls have to be squared off and the edges rubbed down to a height.  Well I hit my first problem the hull is not the correct height for me to make all the decks fall in place.   She is 7 8th too short that makes it  7 feet in real terms height and that's a deck level.   Therefor had to look at all the deck levels and water line using my tool for drawing these lines on the hull.   That meant all the deck and markings on the hull had to be redone.  I also found the markings on the port side of the hull were in the wrong place and the position of the boat crane and its opening where positioned to far forward.   These where adjusted to match up with the openings on the starboard side.

As a result of this the bulkheads made will now have to be lowered due to the change in the ships height.

Once this was all worked out I then using masking tape lined off and marked off the areas to be cut out.  During the cutting I check each opening to ensure is was level with the others and the deck line.  So Hopefully she will look OK.

I am also looking into building my own hull using the ship lines plan and the bulkhead plan to build an accurate  hull.    Ron has offered to make me a hull from the frame.  So if I go ahead with this project I will use it as a training exercise and Ron can then keep this to make hulls for other customers if it is good enough to use.

[paul swainson]

I have given the hull a rest as I feel all I can see is hole's, so I have started to make up some of the small components for the decks when they are installed.   The quarter deck has wash lockers fitted to I thought I would make my own.  Here are some photos of the ones I have made so far and I have set up a production line to make more.  If any one wants to know the measurements I have broken them down for each component.

The top cover is 18.5mm long and 7mm wide.  Cut from 0.5 card.
The two side legs are 8mm long and 7mm wide. Cut from 1mm card
The centre section is made up from oblong squares stuck together to make a body 16mm long and 7mm wide.
The centre leg is 1.5mm deep by 7mm wide.  Cut from 1.mm card.
The wash holes are drilled by a 0.75 drill on a line drawn 2mm down from the top and every hole is drilled at 2mm intervals.
The wash holes on each end are drilled 2mm from the out side edge  forming a line from the same holes on the front.
The top cover hinges x3 have been cut from flat sections 0.65mm along with the hinge backs cut from the same materials 1.5mm long.
The front lock has been cut from a flat section strip 0.75mm 1.5mm long.

(an assortment of flat strips all different sizes can be purchased from the Deans Shop. Very useful for the small detail stuff)
 
I started with the main body and cut the square to 16mm lengths. Rub down with 120 sand paper to give a flat surface for the two sections to be bonded together and then squared off to give a flush match to the side legs, the final size will be 6.5mm deep x 7mm wide and 16mm long. (note the square oblong section have counter sunk sides so you need to rub down or you will not have flat surface to bond.) Once bonded rub down to give smooth surfaces all round.

Cut the two end legs from 1mm card 8mm x 7mm and the centre leg 1.5mm x 7mm wide.

Bond the two end legs to the main body of the locker body.  Once bonded rub down to give smooth edges to the whole unit.
Draw a light pencil line 1mm from the top all the way round. On the front mark off every 2mm from the ends to the middle along the line for the wash holes to be drilled through with a 0.75 drill. Do the same for the end sections again make the holes 2mm from each end and the centre.  Drill the holes for the front and then the sides. ( the sides just need to be drilled to show the size of the hole no need to drill all the way through.)

Bond the top cover to the main body and ensure there is a small lip(over hang) all the way round except for the rear( should be just able to put your craft knife blade point on the very edge  all the way round and no more.) 

The rest is straight forward mark the top cover hinges evenly across the top and down the back for the top hinge using your 0.65 flat strip. The back of the hinge should only drop down 1.5mm.  The length of the hinge on the top should only be 3mm max.

The lock clasp is just 1.5mm long cut from your 0.75 flat section.

Once done prime and paint.  Hope you find this useful.
 

[paul swainson]

Some more work done on the hull till I get my ship lines plan from the NMM.  I have now made the cable deck and lined it with wood panels and placed fit in the bow of the hull, will now make the items which fit on this area.  4x 3 pdr saluting guns, two Clump catheads, three 18 inch bollards, cable reels some deck wash lockers.  Then fit the three cable/anchor chain holders along with their fitments, some fairleads.  the would deck with be finished in a would polish to seal it from the water, and when bonded in sealed so no water gets into the bow or inside of the hull.

[paul swainson]

Have also made the hanger deck platforms on both port and starboard side aft of the front spoons.  Each deck has been lined again with wood deck and the sections marked off for each of the compartments in this area of the ship.   The floor was made first so that it fits and is supported by the front two hull cross sections. The upper deck and side structures are made to be attached later so that I can install all the Air vents and work shop space and cables and cabinets are fitted and then I can prime and paint without marking the deck.  Once glued I can then installed the bollards, fairleads deck hatches and MKVII Paravane, 3 tone winches and ladders. The upper deck openings will also be lined with wood as per the hanger deck openings.

[paul swainson]

Here are some more pictures with detail added, as they were hand made from the original and inserted.

[colin]

some nice Detail your adding there Paul..  Keep em coming.. 

[paul swainson]

Thanks Colin,

Just to keep the follow I have some W/T doors to do so thought I try making a few for my self to install in areas where the quality will not be to obvious

[mikearace]

Very meticulous Paul

[radio joe]

Hi Paul
On holiday at present, trying to keep in touch with a not too good connection, nice attention to the detailing there, a lot of fiddly work on w/t doors, just wondered why you didn't make one and used resin moulding to make as many as you need
Nice work though mate
Joe.

[paul swainson]

Hi Joe, hope the holiday is going well.  I thought I would try my hand at making my own parts for the items that are in the lower decks and would see how they came out.   I have not as yet invested in the mould kit until I see how the ship lines turn out.

As I type the plans from NMM have arrived and they are great.   They show the full side profile and the under side profile along with front and rear lines for the bulkheads.   So went down to my friend who has CorelDraw X6 and he scanned the front and rear ship lines into this programme and then made me card sections a total of 50 in total and flip the missing side over so that I have the completed view of each bulkhead.   So now all I have to do is make up a building board and drawing planing board and then start to make my own ship hull.   So I have something to do in the winter and have to take my time to ensure I get a good hull to match the work I have already done.  If it turns out OK I will have two ships one for display and one to play.   I also have the files of the plans so can print more off as required.   Just need to go to Glasgow to get the main plans copy for a working set.

[paul swainson]

Hi Mike,  Thanks for your comments, the are OK but I think I can do better.   The ones I made was drilled and then cut out with craft knife,  and then filed to get the shape, but not always equal.  So will try another metheard using a grinding tool from the dremel kit and see how that turns out on the next batch.  But I will try the mould kit once I have completed the hull.

[mikearace]

Methinks you do yourself a disservice!

[paul swainson]

Thanks Mike,  I try to improve each time I do something.  I have just done another few door frames and they have come out much better more even and they will look OK.   Yes the time to make them is quiet long but the pleasure in doing so can not be match with the knowledge that all the components on the ship you personally made make it just that bit better.  Will post pictures of the new cut outs later.