Topic: ASR 128

[Ironclad]

Hello all!

I am completely new to this kind of thing and I am guessing one of the younger RC modelers too at 35? I am an old hand at plastic kits but my enjoyment only lasts until they are assembled and painted and then they just sit around until I get rid of them in one way or another and so I was looking for a somewhat more challenging project and decided that a RC Boat was the way to go!

Having looked at all of the kits on sale I decided to go for one of the cheaper kits and so bought the 1/24 scale ASR 128 motor launch as I quite like the PT shape and the deck assembly looked fairly simple.

So....I got my kit through yesterday and I must say that having looked through the kit and read the instructions I was fairly impressed overall. I did have a bit of a frown when I saw the mould quality of some of the white metal parts but then I suppose that's what this kind of modelling is all about ... trimming and shaping aplenty!

So.... off to the workbench now and I will crack on with the hull cleaning and drilling and I will post some pics on here as I go...watch this space I guess.

Ash

[paul swainson]

All of us wish you well and enjoy your new area in the hobby world.   The one think I would recommend is take your time and do lots of trial fits and before you bond anythink be happy with it before you start.  Enjoy you build and welcome to the forum.   

[colin]

I'll join Paul on his comments... 

and don't hesitate to shout help if you need any

[radio joe]

Hi Ash
don't worry about the missmoulded parts, if any are unusable just e-mail Deans, I had 5 missmoulded resin torpedo tubes on my Solebay I e-mailed Deans attaching a photo of them one morning and had 5 good replacements the next day, could not wish for better service. enjoy your build. 
Joe

[Ironclad]

Okay .... so. Got the hull sorted and have got the internal beams in place. Didn't like the whole rudder set up and decided to get some uprated ones. They are a bit larger but will turn this boat on a dime! I also fabbed a platform at the rear of the hull to hold the upper part of the rudder tubes. I also epoxied the propshafts into the P brackets and the rudder tubes into the hull whilst I was at it! I have attached some pics of the journey so far. Next step will be the deck and superstructure cut out so will post when I have more!

[Ironclad]

Following on from the last post....I have used p38 to set the prop tubes into place on the inside of the hull. As there is only a little requirement for filler on the outside would it be OK to use milliput instead as I think you get a much better level of control and finish with milliput rather than Body Filler....have a look at the picture and suggestions would be welcome. Also whilst getting the prop tubes out I noticed a slight bend in the aerial mast. On closer inspection I am really unimpressed with the tensile strength of this white metal part and so am going to scratch build a new mast based around some 2mm brass tube...does anyone have some other pictures of alternative versions of this mast that I could use when rebuilding?

any help / advice gratefully received!

Ash

[mikearace]

I assume that your talking about filling in the minor blemishes between shafts and shaft openings where you have sealed them in place with epoxy and the P38? If so then it doesnt really matter IMHO - there wont be much gap /pinholes to actually fill and unless someone is going to turn the hull upside down to inspect no-body is going to see.  P38 is more solid and durable but Milliput or even Greenstuff etc bearing in mind you are also painting it will all be appropriate.

As for the mast, I would stick with the original plan mast but if you want a variation the mast build on my MA/SB which has a build link on here may be of use.

[Ironclad]

Thanks for that Mike.... I had looked at your MASB previously before doing the deck beams... I can see how this would be considered boring but I approached it with a view that it was an important structural part and so tried to make the joins seamless and even used a bit of left over milliput to seal some small gaps and reinforce the forward joints! As for the stern shafts and shaft openings I know it seems like a small issue but I am aiming for as much perfection as I can (probably due to my history of air-fix kits) and it simply offends my sensibilities to not make this bit smooth and seamless...lol

As for the mast... I like what you have done there.... I think when it comes to it I will use some styrene tube outer for the thick part and a brass tube inner to run the receiver aerial up and then cut and glue the mast lights from the original.

I also noticed that you are using the kit provided rudders and props ... my first reaction was that they were a bit too rough and ready and I also have concerns over the props being so soft. Have you used these before and if so what are your thoughts? As you will see I have already uprated the rudders and am considering a nice pair of scale brass props instead. Sorry to go on but I am on a seriously steep learning curve here and don't want to go wrong if possible!

Thanks in advance for any replies from anyone

regards

Ash

[mikearace]

The rudders are more than adequate to give good directional control.  However the props are a different matter.  Cast White Metal props are never as smooth and clean as brass and even plastic/nylon ones.  We all know there has been a whole science since the introduction of screw propulsion about the effect of propeller wash etc etc. and this still translates to models.  I went with the white metal ones thinking that they would do the job - I have never been disappointed with them on Destroyers and other builds.  However now she is built I am not happy with them at all and will be changing them.  They do impact on the speed which is a little disappointing.  Technically I would guess that she runs at scale speed and does look right when at top speed but she just doesnt go quite as fast as she should do.  I am not looking for her to be a fast electric woosh speed but just to have a little more speed in reserve.  Cant quite decide whether to change for two Raboesch Brass 3 blade props or to go for two nylon non handed props.  But I will be changing them. 

[Ironclad]

Hi all!

Well....all I can say is that this stuff is addictive. I have been a busy little bunny these last few days and have made some good progress. I am now needing to wait for delivery of the radio control gear as I need to get this into the hull before I seal it down really. Having said that I have cracked on with the upper superstructure instead. I really wasn't happy with using the white metal foremast. It is fine for a static model but not for a boat that is destined to be transported about and run so I "tweaked" it with some brass rod and cutting the whitemetal parts to fit it (see pics). I have also built the mainmast too and decided that the only way to go was with 2mm brass tube which I hope to run the receiver aerial up. I then soldered the other bits to it using some styrene sheet for the upper support and the provided bamboo skewer for the wood strengthening. I also noticed a mast mount in an old photo and so have tried to recreate this using more sheet styrene. A bit of sanding and final shaping and I reckon the jobs a good un!

[Ironclad]

  Cant quite decide whether to change for two Raboesch Brass 3 blade props or to go for two nylon non handed props.  But I will be changing them.

Waaaaay ahead of you there.... I have used the whitemetal ones for the moment as they are fine for setting the distance and some motor trials but I really like the look of the three bladed raboesch and am going to get a pair when all is done. One question though....do you need to have a right and left turn propellor set up or chan you have two right or left turners?

ash

[paul swainson]

Hi, there is an article in the Forum under hint & tips, electrics, steering twin engined boats.   This may give you some information to help you decide what you may want to do.  Hope this helps.   I am building a destroyer and will have my propellers turning inwards to force the water on to the rudder.  Paul



Note from Colin: http://www.deansmarine.co.uk/index.php?topic=394.0 just to make it easyer to find the said Hint & Tip..

[colin]

I really wasn't happy with using the white metal foremast. It is fine for a static model but not for a boat that is destined to be transported about and run so I "tweaked" it with some brass rod

that is the pleasure of Model building, no one says that you have to use the parts supplied.... i do a lot of modding "tweaking" of my models, to make them unique...

but i still prefer to buy a kit, as i don't have the time (working person) to scratch build a complete model..

[radio joe]

As they say Ash, you pays your money you takes your choice, but in my opinion contrarotating props do give a more balanced propulsion and better steerage, I guess that's why they do it on the real ship.

[Ironclad]

Thanks for the info guys and thanks for that thread Paul. If I do have contrarotating props do I simply wire one motor in reverse to the other? I have just noticed that the props supplied with the kit will actually be contrarotation anyway so I think I will go down this road!

In the meantime though I have just spent ?50 getting a nice six channel transmitter (thought I may as well as then all options are open in future) and I have fabricated a depth charge rack for the stern as I want this to be more of a sub hunter than just a plain old ASR. I based it loosely on an old pic of one and built it around some to-scale depth charges to get the size right.

I also did one of the gun turrets and am quite happy with the result...these come with canopies but I dont really like them and so will leave the turrets open.

Well... thats it for now .... will put an update on as soon as I do a bit more!

Ash