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Topic Summary

Posted by: Ironclad
« on: 13 September 2012, 18:07:29 »

Oh boy.... I have been so busy at work lately that I simply haven't had the time to do any more on the boat....that and the wife needed my workstation (which is actually the dining room table!...doh!) I have also ordered a more detailed / accurate anchor chain winch but have yet to receive it and so cannot do anymore on the deck yet.

But I have a week off next week and I have fabricated some new lockers as the resin casts were a bit bubbly and making a new pair from styrene sheet would be quicker and neater so here they are:
Posted by: colin
« on: 26 August 2012, 18:27:06 »

your welcome ..  :)  :)

Posted by: Ironclad
« on: 25 August 2012, 23:19:30 »

Ah mate.... you are a legend! Pocket money is no issue so I think I'll get both and see which one I like best...watch this space!
Posted by: colin
« on: 25 August 2012, 10:52:44 »

there is non fogy super glue out there on the market, and there is lots of other glues that can stick clear plastic to normal superstructure plastic...

have a look at this post   http://www.deansmarine.co.uk/index.php?topic=468.0

http://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/

http://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/pages/gluechart.htm

TACKY GLUE
..Very sticky glue that drys clear, flexible, and is non staining. Use for bonding fabric, plastic windows, bonding ceramic and flexible tiles.

ROKET ODOURLESS
..Low odour, non blooming. Safe for plastics and foam, Sets in 1 to 5 seconds.

i guess its a case of what your pocket money will allow..!!
Posted by: Ironclad
« on: 24 August 2012, 22:43:17 »

Hmmm.... I am liking the idea of the framing and it wouldnt be too hard to do. The one problem I have hit is what the hell to stick the microstrip to the clear plastic as the usual liquid poly doesnt cut it" Should I use superglue?...the problem with that is fogging though isnt it?

Help please!
Posted by: karlgalster
« on: 24 August 2012, 17:28:07 »

Ash, as usual Colin is giving a lot of useful information. I would add that even though you are reluctant to display the innards of you model through the windows, better that than blanking the window appertures off as that will be very detrimental to the impression your model makes.  :-\ Its well worth the extra work.
Robin
Posted by: colin
« on: 24 August 2012, 06:04:16 »

lets see if i can give you some answers...
there are a few ideas that could be used in this scale.
1. Make the holes (windows) in the superstructure slightly larger, put on the inside of the superstructure a second skin out of 0.5 or 1mm plastic with the windows slightly smaller than the ones in the main superstructure... this would give you a Small lip inwards, the glazing can then be bent and fixed in place.
2. make the holes (windows) in the superstructure slightly larger (starts the same), then lay your glazing against this hole, and mark the size of the hole onto the glazing, put the glazing onto a protected flat surface, and with "micro strips", put an edge around the markings, and then fix the glazing in place.
3. measure the thickness of the superstructure, probably somewere about 0.8mm, you could take some 1mm microstrips and line the inside of the windows, inside of the superstructure the microstrip would be level with the superstructure, on the outer side there would be a 0.2mm frame, like i did on my "liz terkol" and can be seen here

   
looking at a typical BPB ASRL (British Power Boat / Air Sea Rescue Launch) most of these boats are similar.

Photo of ASRL 122
Photo of ASRL 173

these photo show oval windows on the side of the superstructure, that looks as if there is a lip outwards around the windows, which would mean i would tend to go for version 3.

about seeing the so called gubbins in the boat, you could put a false floor in the supperstrcture after glazing, that way no one can see the gubbins....  ^^^ ^^^

Posted by: Ironclad
« on: 23 August 2012, 21:05:13 »

Lol.... yes Colin... I think it is a question!

Here are my thoughts...firstly there is glazing plastic but if I do that then you can see in to the gubbins in the boat... also it wont fit exactly on the inside of the apertures I have cut as the cabin sides are slightly concave at the edge on the inside due to the vacforming process. I was thinking of maybe just blanking them with a piece of styrene sheet inside and then simply painting the holes black afterwards.

But you intrigue me Colin... tell me more about this framing! I am open to suggestions as to what the best solution here would be.

Ash
Posted by: colin
« on: 23 August 2012, 11:12:55 »

coming along nicely ...  Ash

would that be a question on glazing..?? normally there is clear plastic in the Kit to complete this task..!!

or would Ash be thinking about putting window frames in first then glazing..??
Posted by: Ironclad
« on: 22 August 2012, 22:06:28 »

Well... its been a bit busy lately and so I havent had chance to get on with much but I have now fitted the coamings for the superstructure to the deck and they are nice and tight with no movement once the superstructure is in place. I have also constructed the rudder hatch. I have put the spray strips on to the chine of the hull and given it all a nice coat of primer.

Next will be the deck furniture and then a paint job....I will leave the cabin til the very last as I want to get some detailing on this still  and I still have to work out how to glaze the windows!

Anyway...here are some pics and I'll update you soon!

ash
Posted by: mikearace
« on: 15 August 2012, 19:03:20 »

As Colin says she is looking very nice.
Posted by: radio joe
« on: 15 August 2012, 14:41:24 »

Hi Ash,  As the guys on here have said the latest esc's make it so much easier these days to control the motors as opposed to the mechanical speed controllers of the past, and I always use the battery eliminator circuit and a couple of large capacity nimh batteries, in my solebay I have two 4500Mah nimh batteries to run two 300 motors via two esc's with one supplying the receiver,  rudder servo and two servos for the main turrets, and get well over an hours running.
I do however allways do a durability test in the bath on a newly finished boat before committing an expensive model to the lake, just pop it in the bath tether the boat to the taps and run at about third throttle to give the motors some work, this will give a fair estimate of running time
Posted by: colin
« on: 15 August 2012, 05:13:26 »

considering this is your first time, "at a Deans kit", she is looking rather good  ^^^

Posted by: Ironclad
« on: 14 August 2012, 22:01:14 »

Oh and as for the radio gear.... I was actually going to build a box into the hull so that only the motors and servo would be able to get wet if water did get in....I will see what happens....I may just make it as near as dang impossible for the water to get in ....that's for another time though....next will have to be the hull fixing.
Posted by: Ironclad
« on: 14 August 2012, 21:58:03 »

Ahhh... I think I am seeing daylight here! I think I am just going to go with an ESC with a BEC as it seems the simpler of the two methods. I had to laugh though colin....for a second there I was thinking "hey, this guy is building and ASR too!"...then I realised it was my picture cunningly adjusted...lmao.

Well.... whilst I have been umming and ahing over the running gear I have fabbed a few of the superstructure trimmings. Rather than use the white metal stanchions for the handrails I simply used 1.5 mm brass rod and drilled sockets into 3mm brass tube and soldered them. I also decided that the foot rails for the deck were a little tricky to cut out and still get a neat finish and so I used 3mm square section styrene rod and this gave a much nicer product. You can also just see the UHF loop and it looks spot on. I also put a small brass hook half way up the mast as I noticed some rigging attaches here. My plan is to use that elastick cotton stuff and use small brass fishing swivels so that the rigging can be easily removed at need.

Photo attached.