Deans Marine
General Discussion => Customers Builds => Topic started by: Pegasus on 09 November 2020, 11:21:24
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This is my first Deans Kit and the first one I have documented. I decided due to the lockdown and having finished the rebuild of the forty year old MV Arran
given to my Grandson (three year old Reed) by one of the EK Model Boat Club Members I needed a new Project. I had three Kits in mind HMS Manxman, HMS Verulam or HMS Solebay. I chose the later having seen her lead a Destroyer into Rosyth on a School trip in the 1960s
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I always prepare the kit for the running gear this was all done using plasticard of various thickness I also made the A frames from brass they tend not to damage easily.
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I have now started on the bridge and the gun decks I really enjoyed build these structures
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The aft structure
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Midships Stagg Structure
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Q gun platform
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Forward superstructure
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I have now fitted the running gear and tested in the bath. I have partly set ballast for and aft and will add the final ballast when I have done a Dummy Build if my calculations are correct any ballast will be required midships under the removable battery tray. I will then start painting, due to covid I will be unable to spray paint the hull as I cannot use the spray booth at the Red Deer. So it will be a hand paint which holds no fear all my other ships both motorized or static are hand painted
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Forgot to add picture
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The electrics for the Solebay
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I have also did a dummy build for a bath test so I could determine what the final ballast was needed having placed at ballast at at the bow and stern
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I have more or less finished the AA support structures firstly the single Bofors one.
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The mid structure with the Hazemeyer Bofors mount.
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The Galley this structure has me puzzled where the galley flue is situated. I have looked at numerous photographs without a result I have come to the conclusion it maybe situated inside the Lattice mast
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The bridge with a wireless direction finder
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The Aft Superstructure with the two Staag Mounts
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The funnel with the aerials still to be fitted I will leave this to nearer the final build
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The torpedo tubes
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The lattice mast I enjoyed building and painting the soldering was made easier with a gas soldering torch
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Small Masts made from brass rod
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Director I have considered motorising along with the main armament. It was this director that caused the delay in completing the the Battle class
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Ships Boats completed the basics are their for the modeller to produce a good replica. They are a bit fiddley the alternative would be to buy ready made ones but that can be costly and should be a last resort
!6 ft Fast Motor Dingy
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25 ft Whaler
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25 ft Fast Motor Boat
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25 ft Motor Launch
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I have started on the hull and deck. I have glued the fore deck in place which is fine I can still replace the electrics in this part of the ship. However fitting the after deck permanently can cause problems when trying to get access to motors, I have seen problems other club member have had in trying to replace faulty parts with no or restricted access. The access as designed allow me to change the battery but not the motors steering servo or speed controller. So I will modify the deck to allow it to be removed in one piece. I also have portholes I bought at a club sale 200 Caldercraft 5mm OD for a fiver, having already used the on the bridge etc they should be ok
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Decided to glue the deck down after all as it is integral to the strength of the ship. While i have never needed to replace motors in any of my other ships there is always a first time. If I require to remove a motor a small hole drilled in the deck will suffice to reach the outer screws the inner screws are not a problem. Speed controller, receiver and all servos can be replaced easily.
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Pegasus, she’s looking good, I think it’s a good idea to properly fix the deck to the hull, my worry would be water ingress which would no doubt cause damage to the electrics. I’m currently building Amethyst,well just started, and I’m trying to work out where I should put all the electrical gubbins as I don’t think there is the same amount of access on her compared to my other boats.
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I have been lucky as I have never had water in any of the ships I have built. On my S Boats and MTB that tend to cause a lot of spray at speed I brought the electrics forward and put in a bulkhead in front hold any water ingress which has never happened I also place a bulkhead in between the shafts and motor for the same result.
Look forward to seeing your photographs
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Continuing with the build of the ship this has kept me sane for the last eight months though the pandemic. Just finished painting the crew. With this done that means the final assembly can now proceed.
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Crew
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Think the sailor on his hand and knees is the proverbial Drunken Sailor!
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I have finished the hull. Having tested if the waterline was correct which it was, I will start fitting superstructure
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Now at the my favourite part, the final build
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She’s looking good Pegasus ^^^
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Final dummy build before everything is glued I did the final Ballast test in the bath less railings and lattice mast the result was good
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Continuing with the build the scotsman and anchor winch
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The bridge
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ships boats and the single bofors structure
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Hazemeyer mount
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twin Staag mounts
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Depth charge throwers
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25' motor launch and whaler
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4.5 '' turrets
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Port view
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Starboard view
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With the cold weather this weekend and weed still in the pond at Strathaven I will probably wait for it to improve (it must be an age thing I just don't like the cold) and go to Richmond Park for first sail.
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Nice build, I can't wait to see pictures of her on (calm) waters ^^^
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With the cold weather this weekend and weed still in the pond at Strathaven I will probably wait for it to improve (it must be an age thing I just don't like the cold) and go to Richmond Park for first sail.
I've been using Rouken Glen pond recently, weed free and sheltered , it also has the added advantage that the Boathouse is open for takeaway Latte ;)
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Before I sail the Solebay I will have to build a transportation stand normally I do this at the start of the build but due to covid have been unable to use the workshop at the Red Deer Centre with all our machinery you can build a stand in a couple of hours. So I will build one at home. Was down at Richmond on Tuesday with a Corvette and an S Boat (E Boat) It was a good sail although it was a bit choppy.
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The ship had its first sail this morning at Richmond while it sat well in the water I was disappointed with roll of the ship an tight turns and the time taken to come back to an even keel. The ship weighed in at 3.3 kilos and from the photo a fair part of the waterline is showing.
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The sailing weight according to Deans should be 4.1 kilos. This will allow ne to add more ballast to the ship. I will remove the ballast and renew with a larger sheet and lower the battery box this will cure the time it takes to right itself. the ship will still roll maybe not as much. All destroyers of the that vintage rolled.
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Hi Pegasus;
Excellent pic on the water that looks really happy for her. !! ::DD
Looking a RC model ship on the water is more interesting and enjoyable
than on the desk for me. As I think a ship is normally on the water which we
enjoy her as a RC scale model.This pose on the water I think is the very natural
scene for my concept,regardless of real one or model one.
I do look forward to more pics when you should sail again,if possible, with sailing
scenes generating the wakes around them which may look more realistic. :wink1:
Enjoying a fully complete RC scale model ship on the water is very interesting
which is my final goal of the build of the RC model ship.!! ::DD
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Thanks Kiyoshi whilst I get some satisfaction from sailing the models I get more from the actual build. The problem with the roll will be fixed I enjoy problem solving something I have missed since retiring. The covid pandemic would have been sole destroying if it was not for the ship building. I would like to build an Aircraft Carrier but because of the size transporting it would be a nightmare by the same token the ship I would like to build love to Build is the HMS Renown after her rebuild in 1939 this ship was nicknamed Churchills Racehorse. Will post a video when I solve the rolling problem.
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Pegasus, have you thought about fitting bilge keels? it's something I'm thinking about as I have the same problem with Javelin.
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I will see what happens when I have added extra ballast if there is no substantial improvement then bilge keels could be the answer. The certainly work on my Flower Class Corvette. Her roll from hard turns is excellent. I think you could use 5mm Super Styrene Triangle 60 Degree as a start an the blend it to the required shape.
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Battle class fitted with Bilge keel Having seen this picture I think your suggestion is a goer whilst I have the ship down to the hull and have removed all superstructure battery, receiver and speed controller I will order the styrene and go ahead. You only need to do about a third to half of the ship. on the Corvette which is 35 inches long the bilge keel is 16 inches, On my 350 scale ships is roughly a third. The Solebay is about 47 inches so a bilge keel of about 19 inches should be about right.
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Railbob
I am fitting bilge keels to the Solebay will post pictures. Meanwhile I found a picture of Javelin fitted with bilge keels
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Whilst pleased with the finished Solebay. The performance compared to my other ships was poor the ship rolled to easily and took to long to right. I added more ballast and more importantly added bilge keels. I did this by removing the paint down to the bare haul in the area the bilge keels would be allocated.
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I made the bilge keels from 5mm 60 degree styrene triangle super glued to the hull
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The finished Bilge keel on Solebay. When I get round to building the next ship probably HMS Grenville or HMS Veralum I will add bilge keels at the start of the build
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They certainly look the part Pegasus, I was thinking of using L shaped angle but your idea of using triangular plastic looks a much better solution. Can I ask were you got it from as I can’t seem to find it online?
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Hi
Deans Marine stock the full range of Maquette profiles triangle shapes here
https://deansmarine.co.uk/shop/index.php/cPath/35_47_49/sort/2a/page/3
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I found four lengths in a mixed lot of Raboesch I bought at one on the clubs bring and buy sales it contained a number of different shapes I think together there was around 30 lengths altogether and it cost me £2
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Thanks Pegasus and Ron, I’m going to try the bilge keel solution shortly.
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Railbob
Having re ballasted the ship and added bilge keels I have now repainted the hull and will refit the super structure and repair any damage while the ship was upside down hope to get down to Richmond sometime next week but will test in the bath before then. will keep you informed of results
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Railbob
Finally finished the modifications to the Solebay I have been testing in the bath the roll at each stage the results are :-
1 Original State as Built Sailing Weight 3.40Kilos time of roll from 45 decrees to right 14 Seconds
2 Lowered battery, speed controller and receiver and more ballast Weight 4.2 Kilos time of roll from 45 decrees to right 9 to10 Seconds
3 All No 2 with bilge keels added Weight 4.232 Kilos time of roll from 45 decrees to right 4 to 5 Seconds
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The addition of bilge keels certainly make a difference I also checked my Flower class corvette that had bilge keels from the start the figures were almost identical to the Solebay. The final test will come probably next week as we have child minding duties the rest of the week. The ship sits well in the water sitting right on the waterline.
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Nice modification Pegasus.
can you tell me the dimensions of the strip you used?
I might add them to my Cossack as well now that I see your results.
Can you give your test sail results as well (with the wind etc? I have most troubles with the wind).
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Thanks for all the information Pegasus, I’m going to take Javelin to Rouken Glen on Friday morning as the weather looks great, I’ll work out the times for the rolling under sailing conditions and apply your fix.
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The Solebay is 1221 mm long I set the bilge Keel 390 mm from the bow and used 490 mm bilge keels. The Cossack is similar in size so I hope that helps.
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yeah, but what are the dimensions of your bilge keel, aka how much does it stick out etc.
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I used 5mm 60 degree triangle and fitted so that the bilge keel is 5mm at the bottom of the hull see picture. You could use a larger triangle like a 6 or 7mm
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Finally managed to run my Solebay today at Richmond well pleased with the resuls
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The day was overcast with a little wind.
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The ship acted well even under full helm and the roll was what I would expect from a destroyer
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The ship and its performance drew Praise from the club members present which in itself is no mean feat
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Hi Pegasus, your fix certainly looks to work a treat, now off to look for the triangular plastic on the Deans website and get it ordered for Javelin. ^^^
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Hi Bob, I do my bilge keels slightly different...
Have a look at my Enchantress build
https://www.deansmarine.co.uk/index.php?topic=1162.msg9144#msg9144
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Railbob
Fitting the bilge keels after the model is completed is no fun, when preparing the hull that's the time to fit them. I built 1 72 Flower class Corvette a few years ago the kit came with bilge keels that had to be fitted to the hull I used these as my guide although a larger scale I used the same dimensions on the Solebay. Had the ship at Richmond today the conditions were fair with a good wind and even when the ship was caught side on to the wind the roll was minor and what I would expect.
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The Solebay with new bilge keels fitted I also removed the ballast and positiond it under the hull. tne ship performs the better than is ever has to coin a phrase " It could turn on a sixpence"