Topic: HMS Royal Marine

[Jani]

Hi everyone!

I recently got myself HMS Royal Marine kit and I'm slowly beginning to work with it. Upon examining the hull, a few questions popped up;

- Hull seems to have marked places for what could be bilge keels. Nothing about them is mentioned in the manual and it doesn't show in the drawing either. Did the real ship have bilge keels? If so, what would be roughly the correct dimensions (thickness, width, angle) if I were to make them?

- Bow and stern have these small round "bumps", but which are higher up than the rectangular freeing ports. What are these? First I thought of windows, but on the stern they're not low enough to be viewports(<- term?). Bow starboard side has only three, port side has four - is this correct or should I add 4th to starboard side?

And finally, the model has quite a large rudder surface for it's size. Regular servo has been drawn into the plans. Is this needed, or could I successfully use microservo (1.5kg torque) installed much closer to the rudder shaft?

Thank You very much in advance,

^Jani

P.S.
I'm struggling with terminology and I accept all corrections with gratitude. Hope I haven't made ridiculously stupid questions

[Belgium Crazy Team]

In the bow they are windows, In the stern they are used for guiding cables.

In the model I've build I putted on the bilge keels (I have to measure and look on other plans of John Lanmbert).
I didn't use a standard servo but a microservo, and never encountered problems.

Kurt

[Jani]

Hi Kurt,

In the bow they are windows, In the stern they are used for guiding cables.

Ah, didn't come to think of that. Excellent, thank You!

If anyone knows if the differing counts of windows on starboard and port are correct, please let me know.

In the model I've build I putted on the bilge keels (I have to measure and look on other plans of John Lanmbert).
I didn't use a standard servo but a microservo, and never encountered problems.

This is good news. I will also rather use a microserve and use the additional space in midship for other purposes 

Thank You Kurt, in advance for the trouble with the bilge keels. Very much appreciated.

Br,

^Jani

[Jani]

Hello again,

This would be about the right time to start thinking about lights for the model. I would like to create passable facsimile of the actual wartime lighting, but I find virtually no resources on-line on ASW trawler lighting configuration. To tell you the truth, I have near nil knowledge to work from... 

Here are some assumptions that I have, that I would love to have feedback on;

1. Cabin lighting is yellow/orange, which I assume is switched over to dim red when the action starts?

2. Mast has two lights. They are identified as part number C10 in the drawing, and these look like small lanterns - what are the colors and how are they used (both always on?).

3. Bridge deck bulwarks feature, what I assume are regular navigation lights (part C3); left=red & right = green lights. Correct?

4. The parts C3 featured in the attached picture have two lights where as the provided drawing shows one light on each side. I didn't figure out where the two additional might go - any ideas?

5. Are there other lights that I should be aware of and try to create?

Regards,

^Jani

[Mark]

Hi Jani,

Don't take this as gospel, but here is some information to help you;

1. Yes cabin lighting is usually warm White unless it is a more modern ship that had fluorescent lighting. At action stations warships would go to Red lighting.

2. See mast lighting details in picture below (second down on the right).

3/4. I think you have been given two sets of navigation lights by mistake, Red is Left and Green is right, see second attached picture.

5. The two pictures give details of the lighting you require.

Regards

Mark

[Jani]

Hi Jani,

Don't take this as gospel, but here is some information to help you;

Fantastic! Great many thank's Mark, this is terrific. 

^Jani

[Mark]

Anytime.

Regards

Mark

[Jani]

Hello again,

It suddenly came apparent to me that the instructions didn't specify what to do with the doors... I suppose I was supposed to cut out the doorways, eh? 

I'm little unclear as exactly what is it that one is supposed to do with the doors... just cut out the doorway and then glue again similar piece (with the exception of door window) over that hole? If so, why not just cut the window hole directly into the wall styrene and scrape seams to indicate door? Surely not - I must be missing something here...



Second question is regards the painting scheme. Humbrol color 30 is listed for boat/dinghy interior as "Battan Biege", but according to Humbrol number 30 is Dark Green. Can anyone tip me on what shade of beige is this for selecting the most appropriate? Just some varnished wood -like?

Sincerely,

^Jani

[colin]

Hello Jani,

there are so many ways in making doors..!! its a case of do you want them Open or Closed, do you want the clear styrene (window Glass) straight on the inside of the Door or 2mm away from the window..??

theres two ways that i have made doors, the first one a normal hinged door; the door was glued straight onto the bulkhead.
the second one a sliding door, a hole is cut slightly smaller that the door, the door is then glued onto the bulkhead, this way the window glass sits straight behind the door and not on the inside of the bulkhead.

as far as the question about the colour of paint, i have just checked my Humbrol list and yes the color Nr. 30 is a Dark Green, most of my models interior has been paint with Nr. 71 or 103 which are a Oak or Cream colour.

[Mark]

Colin,

Those are excellent Brass portholes, what scale are they?

Mark

[colin]

the left photo is a scale of 1:50 the front bulkhead of SS Furie.
if i remember rightly there this part;
http://www.deansmarine.co.uk/shop/product_info.php/products_id/685

the right photo is a scale of 1:100 the charthouse of HMS Inflex..

[Jani]

there are so many ways in making doors..!! its a case of do you want them Open or Closed, do you want the clear styrene (window Glass) straight on the inside of the Door or 2mm away from the window..??

Ooh, I like how the arched door on hinges looks. I will try to make one like that, if I can't find information showing another kind of been used in the real ship.

But what kind of black magic is that other door with cross-structs on it's window?   Given my experiences just making acceptable square holes, that kind of feat is well beyond the realm of possibility - but yet, there it is...

Cheers,

^Jani

[colin]

all of the hinges and thing like that are made from micro strips and micro rod from Slaters.

here's another photo of the charthouse, the cross beams are from micro strips 0.2 x 1 mm
part No. 1016 second packet from the left..

you will even make out a door handle made out of 0.2mm brass rod

you can see more of the charthouse and the model HMS Infelx... under this thread.. this model is still in the making, at pressent i am working on the turrets, and turn buckels hope to have a photo by next weekend. http://www.deansmarine.co.uk/forum1/index.php?topic=144.0

[Belgium Crazy Team]

Jani,

I measered up the bilge keels on the plan of John Lambert.

On the plans I have there is no angle of the bilge keels indicated.
Normally these stand in 90° on the hull.  The thickness is approximately 3mm.
The bilge keels follow the curve of the hull.

On my model I enlarged them to 5mm to have extra stability....
Kurt

[Jani]

I measered up the bilge keels on the plan of John Lambert.

Thank You Kurt!

I actually went ahead and ordered my copy of the plan from Lambert as well - thought that since someone is taking the time and trouble making those, might as well support it by purchasing one as well.

Is that there in the picture, your Royal Marine -kit? (I notice T337 instead of T395) It's significantly different from the Royal Marine -kit layout.