Deans Marine
General Discussion => Customers Builds => Topic started by: subdriver on 09 November 2015, 15:56:44
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Hello, I am Lex Verkuijl, a modelbuilder from the Netherlands. I have been modeling for nearly 40 years now, everything from speedboats to scale, tugs, and submarines.
(Please excuse some spelling- and gramar errors on my part, Englisch is not my native language. The other option would be to ask you all to learn Dutch ... :) I have tried that with Ron for the past 30 years or so, still no results … ;D )
After finishing two of Ron’s kits in the past, the ‘MTB 488’ and ‘Lady Beale’, i have started on a new project; the tugboat Yarra. It is a realy nice model, easy to transport but still big enough to accomodate for some extra’s. I rarely build a model ‘according to specifications’, usualy there are few extra functions and details added. For the yarra I have the folowing wish-list:
Brushless motors
Working Becker rudders
Soundsystem
Working fire monitor (turning and variable waterpressure)
Rotating radar
Various lighting
Working towing winch
Cooling water simulation
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/yarra.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/Dretis%203.jpg)
And after studying some pictures I found on the all famous Internet of the original tug and it’s sister vessels I am going to add details as:
Tire ‘fenders’
Towing winch reels on deckhouse
Depth- and plimsol markings
Sacrifical anodes
Starting the Build
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1130275a%20(Small).JPG)
After taking a good look at the kit i decided to make some modifications. The supplied props dont seem to fit the nozzles properly. There is about 5-6mm clearence between the two in stead of 1mm needen for an efficiënt kort nozzle system.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1130254%20(Small).JPG)
Ron told me the supplied nozzles are in fact just prop rings to keep out floating timber and debree found in the Australian ports. But i like real nozzles better, they at least take the scale appearance of the model up a notch or two. I also am using Raboesch props and shafts on this boat, and modified two of their rudders into Becker rudders.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150127%20(Small).JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150099%20(Small).JPG)
All of this means some more work since the mounting of the korts and shafts have to be modified as well. I think it is worth it. A smal test of the Becker rudders:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQW4b8pA5bI (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQW4b8pA5bI)
The internet pics showed that the real tugs are sitting a lot deeper in the water as the proposed waterline on the plan. The stern even would be out of the water that way! A test in my garden pond with the original waterline marked on the hull revealed that 1.8 kg of weight could be added. With the weight of the hull itself the model could weigh up to two kilograms. Thats better as the 1.55 kg mentioned in the specs. This way the model will look more scale on the water, and will be able to put in all the extra stuff i have planed. Hopefully … :wink1: And luckily the Raboesch rudders have an o-ring seal. With the new waterline they will be underwater …
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The korts are glued in place, now aligning the props and shafts
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150192%20(Small).JPG)
Finished propulsion and steering
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150199%20(Small).JPG)
Inside the hull
Inside the hull things are getting along as well. I made an aluminum motormount for two 28mm 750KV outrunner motors. These probably have a little to much power ::), but that can be usefull when towing bigger objects. :)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150225%20(Small).JPG)
Furthermore the rudderservo is schrunk to a mini-size and is moved all the way back. This creates the opportunity to make the acces hatch in the aft deck smaler, and thus easyer to make it waterproof. With the stronger motors I expect a little more water over the decks …
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150363%20(Small).JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150395%20(Small).JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150403%20(Small).JPG)
In the hull I am placing two waterpumps for the monitor and the coolingwater. Over these i made a ‘second level’ to accomodate the sound system with Multi-switch module, and the receiver. The ESC’s are mounted to the hull sides with velcro.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150404%20(Small).JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150235%20(Small).JPG)
So far my progress. I will put up more posts as the build progresses.
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very nice indeed.. ^^^
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Unfortunately things aren't going as quick as i would like. I finaly found the time to glue the deck onto the hull.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150413%20(Small).JPG)
Now its to detailing the bulwarks and the bollards.
PS Never mind the stand, it's uggly but just a build stand. I am planing something else for that later on...
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things never really do go as planned, I have also first hand experience that this.. :o
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I did some work on the bollards and made new ones that look more like the real thing. They ar made of carbon tube, that should be strong enough ... ::DD ;)
The kit bollards out of resin with the new bow- and stern bollard in carbon
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150426%20(Small).JPG)
And the side bollards, like the original folowing the lines of the bulwark
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150435%20(Small).JPG)
Original
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/Dretis%203.jpg)
And the rear bollard with the resin one next to it
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150429%20(Small).JPG)
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And also the single bollards have found their place along the bulwarks.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150436%20(Small).JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150439%20(Small).JPG)
(Dit you know that carbon sanding dust is a real pain in the b*tt to remove from an unpainted deck .... ? :wink1: )
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Hi Lex, you are making a really nice job of this tug. :)
Robin
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Today i took advantage of the extreme winter weather we are having at the moment 8) and was able to use my outdoor spraybooth; the garden ^^^. The hull and the rest of the 'underwater parts' are now sprayed in 'antifouling red'
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150451%20(Small).JPG)
The colour was made by mixing bordeaux red, a little green, and a can of Humbrol gold paint. That gives a colour quite close to real antifouling paint. The gold adds it a slight metalic gloss to it, like the real thing with copper additives. That is not vissible now since the paint is still wet, but wil show when it has set to a satin finisch.
(While I am typing this i am wondering why i didn't use the real paint in the first place .. ::DD )
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The paint has set and in the meantime i made the steering cabin
Al the parts. Although there are lasercut windowframes for the front windows i decided to use the printed ones. That way it is easier to make them fit properly
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150456%20(Small).JPG)
The stages of growth:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150460%20(Small).JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150467%20(Small).JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150476%20(Small).JPG)
And a test fit on the deckhouse with the roof on
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150488%20(Small).JPG)
After all this, this is how my workspace looks like. It can get worse, trust me .. !!
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150478%20(Small).JPG)
Merry christmas everyone! ^^^
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So far, so good ... :wink1:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150491%20(Small).JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150492%20(Small).JPG)
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Made a footbridge in the deckhouse to have an opening to let the sound out of the model.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150517%20(Small).JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150518%20(Small).JPG)
And with fitting the deckhouse I found the overall proportions a bit off. Like the deckhouse was positioned a bit to far to the bow. The aft deck seemed to long and the bow deck to short. With taking some mesurements from a picture of one of the original tugs this was confirmed; the end of the deckhouse needs to be in line with the left side of the third scuppers from the bow. This ment modifying the deck opening to be able to put the deck house about 18mm more aft. Here is a picture of the comparison:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/Dekhuis%20vergelijk.png)
Top picture = position according to the plan, middel = 18 mm more aft.
Modification to the deck opening:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150511a%20(Small).JPG)
This way the feeling i had about the disproportion is gone, the model looks balanced now.
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I hate to say this, but looking at your comparison pictures, I think that the superstructure is now too far back, and should be in the 'as per plan' position.
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Here an other comparison with the original tug in a true 90 degree angle to the camera, like the model. In the other picture the angle is a bit off, that distorts it a little.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/dehkuis%20vergelijk2.png)
Also note the position of the rear of the deckhouses to the third scupper from the bow.
OK, it might have to be 15mm back in stead of 18, because of the tire in front of the bow. You can't exactly deternine the first point of the bow with that.
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Surely the comparison tug is different to the first one, it doesn't have the recesses in the bulwarks, even so I have to agree with Manxman the shorter fore deck looks right to me, Deans are not infallible but I think they have this one right.
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Hello Manxmann, Joe,
Thanks for your input, I appreciate that! However, and I am probably running the risk of being called a stubborn Dutchman ... :) , here are some more pics. The first one is the forward deck with deckhouse and anchor winch placed according to plan. The second one with the deckhouse just about 16mm back. And one of the real tug. (The Tanunda is a sister vessel of the Yarra)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150524%20(Small).JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150523%20(Small).JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/2011%20Tanunda.jpg)
You tell me what's the wright position ... ::)
About the recesses in the bulwarks; Carrington Slipway in Australia hase build several of these tugs. Some have the recesses, some don't. I have come accross four tugs from that series; the Tanunda, Crowter, Maika Tora and Dretia. Two of those have the recesses, two don't. Apart from that, and one or two reels of towingline on the back of the superstructure, they are identical. I found only one picture of the actual Yarra, but that's not good enough to get any details or messurement from.
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Hi Subdriver, you know there's no right or wrong way there's only your way, it's your build and your doing an excellent job of it, it's purely my opinion but the first picture shows the forward end of the wheelhouse nearly in line with the aft end of the recesses in the bulwarks which matches the picture of the first comparison tug, if that makes sense, and given that most of the work carried out on a tug is on the aft deck I would have thought that's where the most room would be, my Envoy class tug has a very small fore deck just big enough for mooring and anchor handling, again just my opinion and not meant as a criticism of you work, do what you are happy with. :) ^^^ ^^^
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Hi Joe,
Thanks again for your replay, and your complements. I see this as positive feedback and certainly not as 'putting me down' or anything like that. ^^^ You are right, everyone builds as he does, there is no wrong way. Unless you try to put the props above the waterline that is .. ::DD
The thing is, there is no model out there that is 100% scale, from whatever manucaturer. And the bigger the 'oriental factor' is, the lower that percentage gets. On that point you can certainly see that Deans Marine puts a lot of effort into their models to get them as close to the real thing as they can get. If you really want 100% you will have to build from scratch from the original shipyard plans. But a model doesn't really has to be 100% scale, its the fun in building a model that makes the hobby. And I am having a lot of that with this one! ^^^
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I have been working on a little 'sidekick'; the search light on the steering house with a super bright LED.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150531%20(Small).JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150526%20(Small).JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150528%20(Small).JPG)
Amazing how much light you can get out of just one LED! The mini servo has been modified to rotate 2x 90 degree. A short test video; first half with the lighting in the room switched off. (for the second part; ignore the background.. ::) )
https://youtu.be/ytOiM-A8oiU (https://youtu.be/ytOiM-A8oiU)
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That will do nicely, we're lucky with the components we can get today, the closest you could have got to that back in the sixties/seventies would have been a 6 volt torch bulb probably bigger than your whole searchlight. ^^^
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Another sidekick; the electronics-level:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/indeling%20electronics%20(Small).png)
S= Neuhaus soundmodule with Multi-Switch function (8 channel 3.2V 20mA max.)
R= Receiver
B= UBEC module
M= multi-switch 'amplifier' (6 channel 5V 500mA, 1 channel 5v winch forward-backward) with magnet-switch and power distribution (2x 7,4V motors, 2x 11,1V waterpump and soundmodule)
Under side:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150534%20(Small).JPG)
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The hull is now finished with placing the sacrificial anodes:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150540%20(Small).JPG)
And after spraying the hull in matt varnisch, and placing the propshafts, propellers and rudders this is the result so far:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150550%20(Small).JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150552%20(Small).JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150555%20(Small).JPG)
Then I put al the RC stuff in the hull:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150544%20(Small).JPG)
And complete with the 'electronics level' and batteries
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150547%20(Small).JPG)
Then I put her in my garden pond to check out the weight. There is still about 1/4 inch to spare, enough for the extra weight in the deckhouse. I think even a little extra ballast will be needed.
A video of the initial testing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-pkjqJzfco
I was planing a short trailrun, but unfortunately the Dutch weather prevented that .. later!
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Looking great, hope to see it in the water soon
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I finaly had a chance to do a test run. Comments in the video clip:
https://youtu.be/-xp8VNR6NGY
Conclusion: She runs great! Steering is spot on, but needs a little less servo throw. I will set the throttle to a max of about 50-60%. That wil take her just a tad over the maximum scale speed, with enough pulling power, but no more 'powerboat speeds'... ::DD Towing at full power would also result in the boat pulling itself on it's side. During the testrun a lot of water ran over the deck, only two drops inside. On the battery, spraid in through the not yet sealed portholes .. :grin1:
All in all a good maiden trip! On with the building ^^^
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With all the power it would be likely to loose the superstructure, especially when towing. So now I can attach it firmly to the hull. On the front end it latches under a plastic strip:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150572%20(Small).JPG)
The back screws on with two M3 threads :
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150573%20(Small).JPG)
They can be screwed in and out with the caps on the engine vent's:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150575%20(Small).JPG)
I can lift the entire model by grabing the superstructure, that'll do I think ... :grin1:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/P1150574%20(Small).JPG)
I'm a 'Murphy's Law' kind of guy... ; better safe then sorry .. ::DD
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Over the weekend i did some programming on the sound module. That ment taking a Youtube video with a big marine diesel, modifying the sound and trimming it to convenient sections. Then putting it al together in the software:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/101885570/Deans%20Marine%20Yarra/Sound%20Programming.JPG)
Explanation:
Run 'x' = running sound, iddle (0) to full throttle (4)
Acc 'a'-'b' = acceleration from position a to b
Dec 'b'-'a' = deceleration from b to a
Start and stop sequence at the top
The 'run' files are easy, tricky are the 'acc' and 'dec' files wich have to be programmed to run at the correct throttle positions.
All in al it sound ok, but I am not completely happy yet. Some files need some finetuning still. But it's a good start!
Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7V-zaCpJYbc&feature=youtu.be
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Ok ... it has been a while ... :o Almost a year, I had some other 'high priority builds' to complete. But now there is time again for the Yarra, so the build continues.
The hull has got some more paint on it since last time, this is how she lookes like now:
(http://www.modelbouwforum.nl/media/p1160729-small.231154/full?d=1483984415)
(http://www.modelbouwforum.nl/media/p1160728-small.231153/full?d=1483984415)
Having done this I am again eager to finisch the build, so ... to be continued!!
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Some progress. The bolllards have been placed, and the top hull has received a coat of matt varnisch. Furthermore:
Aound the bow the buffers have been glued. Pieces of rubber tubing with a lengt of 1,5mm brass rod inside to force them into shape. To them I also solderd chains to tighten them.
(http://www.modelbouwforum.nl/media/p1170110-small.231582/full?d=1485790593)
The 'tighteners' made from 1mm brass and pieces of 2x1mm tubing.
(http://www.modelbouwforum.nl/media/p1170114-small.231584/full?d=1485790593)
The first tires on the bow. There is a nice see-through on the tightners and chains.
(http://www.modelbouwforum.nl/media/p1170113-small.231583/full?d=1485790593)
Overview with all the tires.
(http://www.modelbouwforum.nl/media/p1170118-small.231585/full?d=1485790593)
The anchorwinch now sit's on the front deck. The bollards needs some rope, but then the foreward deck is finisched like this.
(http://www.modelbouwforum.nl/media/p1170120-small.231586/full?d=1485790593)
The afft deck is still a little nacked, i'm working on that ;)
(http://www.modelbouwforum.nl/media/p1170121-small.231588/full?d=1485790663)
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The afft deck also got it's parts.
(http://www.modelbouwforum.nl/media/p1170124-small.231780/full?d=1486913405)
(http://www.modelbouwforum.nl/media/p1170126-small.231781/full?d=1486913405)
On with the superstructure. I wanted to place the towing hook first, so that would give me the position of the hole to lead the towing line into the deck house. I want to make a winch there so I van varie the length of the towing line while on the water. But I was dissapointed about the finisch of the supplied towing hook, so I decided to make another one out of ABS and aluminium. The parts:
(http://www.modelbouwforum.nl/media/p1170129-small.231783/full?d=1486913405)
(for comparrison; I used a M2 bolt in the support, and the pins are 1,5mm)
Put toghether, with the Deans hook behind it.
(http://www.modelbouwforum.nl/media/p1170128-small.231782/full?d=1486913405)
and in its place on the deck house.
(http://www.modelbouwforum.nl/media/p1170130-small.231784/full?d=1486913405)
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While the paint on the tow hook is drying i made a tow winch inside the deckhouse. This enables me to varie the length of the tow line.
(http://www.modelbouwforum.nl/media/p1170147-small.231981/full?d=1487439098)
There is 2 meters of Dyneema line on the reel, thin but verry strong. If there is to great a pull on the line the spring compresses, thuss buffering the force. It is also a fail safe for letting the winch run to long. That would lead to a stuk line and the 6kg winch would pull things appart. When the spring compresses the switch on the left is released and the winch stops.
'Fail safe'-position:
(http://www.modelbouwforum.nl/media/p1170148-small.231982/full?d=1487439098)