Deans Marine
General Discussion => Customers Builds => Topic started by: colin on 12 September 2009, 18:04:04
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Hi Folks, my Build has started, and heres the first photos of the Engine room.
i have decided to add Bulkheads to support the propshafts and Motors.
there will also be another 3 Bulkheads added, one either side of the Glacisplate to form the battery bay, and one 100mm from the Bow as the width of the ship near the Bow is very critical, so that the raised bow (capstan deck) meets flush with the front of the Forward flying deck.
anyway if anyone needs the dimensions for the Bulkheads i can Scan them in and send them per Email as a Tiff photo, so the dimensions stay correct.
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Hi Colin,
Won't you get a bit of vibration noise from the motor Bulkhead?
Mark
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I used the complete bulkhead in several ships.
Never had noise problems. The key is that you align the motor perfectly with the propshafts. Then you have limited noise.
Kurt
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so far in all the years that i have been building model boats, i have never had any noise from the way i build my Engine room (motor mounts)
and as Kurt says, if you have lined up your motors and shafts as close as possible to 100% then there is no noise at all..
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Colin nice job on the bulkheads, what motors are you using? also it looks like you have gear boxes on the back of the motors??
Tom
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Colin,
Do you use brushless motors in the inflexible?
Why? What's the advantage against a normal motor?
Kurt
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i have used a couple of Buehler motors Prt No. 1.13.055.241 at 12 Volts they will draw about 1 Amp, and run at about 2000 RPM, and produce about 13Watts of power, theres not much thats going to stop them props from turning.
for more information you can visit this website http://www.buehlermotor.com (http://www.buehlermotor.com)
i have never burnt a Buehler motor out, and they have never sent my speed controllers up in smoke.
all of my present working Boats are powered by a Buehler, and mounted on Bulkheads.
see threads;
http://www.deansmarine.co.uk/index.php?topic=66.0 (http://www.deansmarine.co.uk/index.php?topic=66.0) (Furie)
http://www.deansmarine.co.uk/index.php?topic=51.0 (http://www.deansmarine.co.uk/index.php?topic=51.0) (Liz Terkol)
@ Mark; Next Year at the Open Day or on the Intermodellbau Dortmund, i will give you a Demo of how quite my mountings are.
@ Kurt; i reckon that brushless are still to expensive at the moment, my set up cost me about 80 pounds
(both motors, cuplings and P94 DUAL ESC AND MIXER from Action)
http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/pdfs/P94.pdf (http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/pdfs/P94.pdf)
@ Tom; theres no gear box on the back of the motors.
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I thought I saw 3 wires leaving the motor casing, but the 3th one was a shade...
I have to look better at the photo's. 8)
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Should have gone to Specsavers Kurt
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I look forward to the demonstration :)
Mark
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here comes some more Photo's;
90% of the Electrics have been installed, i am missing two Batteries at the moment because my pocket money has run out.
what can we see;
the motors, speed controller, receiver, servo, and a power distribution board, plus my own made suppression board.
the main Battery compartment takes two Batteries with a further Battery forword in the Bow, in the Battery Bay is also the Charging socken and On / Off switch
all of the Bulkheads have now been installed plus all of the Deck Support beams, i prefer to use Plastic, in the Kit all the Deck Support beams are made out of Wood.
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i have even managed to fit some of the Decks... they have not been glued in Place yet, and Probably wont be for some time, also the coming for the turrets has also been fitted.
i`ll be down the Lake tomorrow to test my Drive System, its the first time i have used a Speed Controller with a built in Mixer that speeds up the outer and slow down the inner motor in a Turn.
muss not forget to take my Camera with me.!
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Looks nice...
Sometimes I use 2 microswitches on the rudder servo that cut off the power to the inner prop.
That's the cheap way.
Kurt
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your right Kurt, it would be a very much cheaper way of doing it, and i have used that system before (microswitches on Rudder) to control a bow thruster.
but with this speed controller and built in mixer, its all completely proportional, wether its the throttle or steering, the motors get mixed according to the amount of rudder and throttle you have given.
she does not turn in her own length, but for a ship thats over 1 meter long and about 25cm wide, she has now got a reasonable turning circle of about 1.5 to 2 meters
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Hi Colin. Am I correct in assuming you are using the Action mixer? I have used the Action mixer (a stand alone as compared to your integrated unit) and have found it impressive although I think Kurt's simple modification is also very effective. One aspect of the Action mixer I think might need some re-thinking though. My mixer (not on a Deans Marine model I would add) has a facility for turning the boat on its axis - very useful for steering courses! The mixer achieves this by turning the two motors in opposite directions. On the transmitter one commands this by putting the helm hard left or right and applying a very small amout of forward throttle. This is not particularly intuitive and it takes some time to learn to do this (specially for an old brain like mine). The aspect I really do not like about this however is not the command method but the fact that the mixer in this mode commands both motors at maximum power. My mixer does not have any facility for reducing the power output in this mode. It works OK but is a bit harsh. If you have a model with drive systems too powerful for the model you can always correct for this under normal conditions by restricting the transmitter output manually or by programming the transmitter if it has that facility. When however you command the mode above, full motor power will be applied to both motors with interesting results.
Robin
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Hi Robin, yes i am using the one from Action.
read this PDF " http://www.action-electronics.co.uk/pdfs/P94.pdf "
this speed controller is fully proportional, not only on the throttle but also on the rudder, with out any throttle, and move the rudder a little then one motor turns slowly forward and the other turns slowly Astern, the motors speed up the more rudder you give, and of course if you throttle forward a little or a lot, this will alter the speed of the motors accordingly.
i am using Mode 3, with the variable resistor set to about 50-70%
because of the size of the Ship it will not turn on its Axis, then again i did have a lot of Prop wash, probably when there is enough Ballast in the Ship and the Props are fully submerged so they don't such Air, then it will probably be a lot better.
i can also play with the variable resistor and set the percentage Higher or Lower, I'll have to ask Dave at Action and see what he thinks..
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Hi Colin
You are using the more recent Action P94 combined mixer dual ESC product which can be configured to suit you requirements. This unit was not available when I built my model - I used the earlier P40C mixer with two stand alone Action controllers. The P40c has no configurability except two dual-in-line switches to reverse motor commands and behaves as I described - i.e full power on the motors to spin the boat when applying full helm but just a smidgin of throttle. I would advise anybody else reading this to buy the P94 unit as it is much better than the earlier product.
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here we go with a little detail;
just a little bit of Micro Flat from the firm Slaters, at a size of 0,010" x 0,040" (inches)
that would be about 0.2mm x 1mm
these photos are of the Chart House on top of the bridge
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heres a couple of more photo's
most of the plastic has now been glued together now its time to sand all the joint smooth and start on the fine detail..
a little detail can be seen on the charthouse and on the Signals Office, all of this detail has been made by Microstrips from slaters.
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i have now had time to compleat one of the Turrets.
the Stanchion are from RB Fittings, and the rungs are from Albion Alloys.
Stanchion: http://www.deansmarine.co.uk/shop/product_info.php/cPath/1_2/products_id/731 (http://www.deansmarine.co.uk/shop/product_info.php/cPath/1_2/products_id/731)
Rungs: http://www.deansmarine.co.uk/shop/product_info.php/cPath/51_89/products_id/2577 (http://www.deansmarine.co.uk/shop/product_info.php/cPath/51_89/products_id/2577)
(also available in 1 meter lengths)
the wing nuts that can be seen in the close up photo, have been made out of etched Stanchion, with the top of the railings eye cut off, i think this has the recommended effect.
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Very effective Colin. Coming on well.
Robin
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Superb!
Mark
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magnificent!
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thanks guys... ^^^
today i have changed the Railing rungs to 0.2mm thickness, the 0.33mm that i had on the turret looked to thick for me... :o
http://www.deansmarine.co.uk/shop/product_info.php/cPath/51_89/products_id/2577 (http://www.deansmarine.co.uk/shop/product_info.php/cPath/51_89/products_id/2577)
now the railings look a lot better...
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Colin, 0.2 mm diameter rod looks a useful material. I see from your link it is nickel silver. I have no experience of using this material. How rigid is it and how easy is it to bend it? Can you solder it with a "normal" soldering iron or does it have to be silver soldered? All questions I know but I am sure many on here would be interested in using this material.
Robin
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Hi Robin,
at a scale of 1:96 you need the thinest stuff you can get hold of to make scale railing, i have used overhead wire from the railway firms before now, but you can only get that in 200mm lengths.
last year i was introduced to this Nickel Silver from Albion Alloys, and it can be obtained in 1 Meter lengths which is very handy for railings.
i think i would say at this thickness its about the same as Brass Rod, very flexible, i did not have to bend it at all for the Turret, it just followed the contors of the Stanchions, for the rest of the railings of the main superstructure i will have to bend it, and yes it bend very well, just about 90° angle with no curve in the corner.
i have not soldered it yet, the railing on the turret have only been tacked in place with a needle pin size drop of supper glue on the first and last stanchion, the paint work will hold the rest in place.
again i would say at this thickness it reacts about the same as Brass but more Flexible and holds its form until a good pressure is applied.
sometime if you just touch brass rod at 0.2mm it bends and stays that way, this Nickel Silver does not.
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Colin,
For some purposes I use transformer wire (0.13mm thick)
An example of the stuff:
http://www.made-in-china.com/showroom/suntekwire/product-detailPeqnmEgGFzhp/China-Polyurethane-Enamlled-Wire-for-Network-Transformer-QPN-0UEW-Y-.html
This I use to make steel cables. You add 3 pieces of wire and twist it, so it looks as a steel cable.
I will see that i have an example of that on a deans kit.
Kurt
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i use those sort of wire for my lighting.... as can be seen in the attached photo... plus the micro LED's
the NiSi 0,2mm is very good for railings, it has the strength and flexibility of steel rod, with a bit of suppleness of Brass wire..
it would be very good for making whip aerials, it does not deform if slightly touched unlike brass rod would..
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I like this idea, so I have bought myself a reel (1000M) of ebay for £6.85, should come in handy for the latest project.
Mark
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@ Mark, the wires are coated transformer wires so there is no chance of a short, you can even lay on the out side of the mast in some scales..
so here we go with a little more details for the turrets, i have made some canvas crates that sit on top of the turrets according to the photo's that i have.
the crates were made out of 1 x 0.2 mm plastic strips from slaters
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Hello!
I just joined the forum because I am going to start building the Inflexible too. I was the lucky one to get the first ever sold kit together with a "number ohne"-signature on the plan by Mr. Dean himself.
The hints I already got from this report here are of outstanding importance for me. I am looking forward to any prosecution.
I have already built a ship from the Inflexible-"family", the Chinese Ting Yuen, built on a German dockyard in the 1880s.
If you like to see: http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=39135
Schmidt
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i am sure during the next year or so this thread will grow to a reasonable size, as i get time i will continue posting my findings and adding Photo's of the parts built.
@ Schmidt, your Ting Yuen is also a nice model, i think i might have to pick your brains about making the Sails.
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its been a while since i have posted in here, and as always i have been a little busy, not forgetting that i am a working person and only have the weekends to do any Building.
the second turret is in the making, i have managed to fix the Ram onto the Bow and mould it into the Hull.
the raised bow has been fitted in place; this took some doing, not forgetting what is mentioned in the instructions, that the Bow at 110mm from the bow must be 100mm wide this is extremely important, if these measurements are wrong then the raised bow could be to wide or to narrow, this would mean that the Forward flying deck would not fit snugly up against the raised bow.
after days of applying filler and sanding it down only to apply some more i have managed to thicken up the area around the propshafts, this is not mentioned in the Kits instructions nor is it on the Kits Plans, but the information that i have from books, photo`s and other plans, there is a deffinate evidence that this area is a lot thicker than just a propshaft of 6mm in diameter.
hope you all enjoy the photos
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That looks like a very good weed removal tool you now have on the front of your model ;D
The filling around the prop shaft is excellent, it is often a point on a model that is neglected.
Mark
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;D ;D ;D i like the idea of that Mark, might be better if i mould a sharp edge into the Bow as well.. ;D ;D
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some weekends it seems as if nothing gets done... but i am hard at work on this project, i have been doing some drawing for some Brass etchings, that are not supplied in the kit.
for example there are turnbuckles that hold the turrets to the turret ring, most of the rigging is also held in place on the deck with turnbuckles.
also all of the blocks wether small, single or double, i have drawn them and will replace the moulded parts that came with the kit with this update.
in previously built models i have noticed that the metal blocks that come with the kit do not like being under strain, they tend to break, at least with brass etchings there is a little more strength so the rigging can be reasonably taught.
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through the preparations over the past couple of weekends, and last weekend i glued the first part of the sides to the gangway, and just now have glued the rest of the sides in place, they have now been pined to hold in place and can dry over night, so its all nice and firm for the next stage.
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been down the cellar most of the weekend, i was allowed out for meals.
there is not much to see but here goes.
after looking at a few photo's some of them were of original Torpedo boats and some were the photo's of the kits torpedo boats, i have decided to completely remake my Torpedo boats, there were so many different types of these small craft, basically all are based around a steam Picket boat.
the photo in the top left corner is from the kits instructions, so you can see what has been cut away and what has been replaced.
the remainder of the photo's show my new version, its still in the making but the general layout can be seen.
most of the vacform deck was cut away, which left me with a big hole to fill, part of the hole was filled back in again with a flat piece of 1mm pastic card which is were the engine room is, the aft open area had its side walls installed and a floor, on the top edge is some round plastic to give the top edge the proper finish.
the wheelhouse was also finished in the same way, the photo's that i have show an open wheelhouse with a canvas roof, which will be added later, once the deck and hull has been glued together.
i have even made a couple of 'A' frames for the propshafts and made some Exposed prop shafts, will just have to find some nice Props now, although the brass etched ones in the kit could be used.
there is still a fair bit of work to be done on the fittings, but i think its looking good.
in the photo's its not quite noticeable how big/small these Torpedo boats are so heres the dimensions;
roughly 20cm long x 3cm wide
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Hi Colin.
Looks like a major project in itself - should be able to add quite lot of detail on a 20cmx3cm boat but it will be worth it. When I look at a warship model my eyes tend to be drawn to certain aspects - the funnel/s (breadth, height, rake), gun turrets (realistic or not), masts (rake), rigging (can be too heavy and obstrusive), boats (realistic or not).
I think many vacuum moulded items in kits need a lot of work to make them appear a good representation of the original.
Just my thoughts
Robin
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Hi Robin,
its allways the little things that make a boat/ship stand out from the rest, for example on my Lis Terkol the extra aerials, and the life belt holders and rope that goes round the life belts, just a few of the added features, and i am sure there will be quite a few added features with this project, so far on the turrets; the canvas holders and the wing nuts, how many other Infexible's will have those things on it.
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Not many I would think. Looking forward to seeing the Inflexible progress Colin.
Robin
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Very nice Colin, the ships boats are one of my favorite parts of a build, it's always good to see the detail being added as so many times you look at a model and see solid lumps for the ships boats. ^^^
Mark
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i have been working on the torpedo boats a little...
just got to make the holders for the torpedo's and a few minor little things, then its time to paint them..
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Looking very good, where was the steering position on these boats?
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most of the steam Picket Boats had the helm just behind the engine room, on the photos that i have there no helm shown, but i guess this type of Torpedo boat had the helm under the front canopy..
well that's were i will be putting mine ;)
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Thats why I was asking as a lot of the small craft and even upto the TBD's had some form of steering chain/cable running over the deck at the stearn of the craft that was then attached to a tiller arm or Quadrant.
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here we go then... i have been working on my Torpedo boats again..
the bollards have been applied, these were made out of Microstrips and a bit of Brasswire
the Torpedo holders have been built and glued in place, these were made out of scrap white metal, and some Nickelsilver rod 0.33mm
the canopy of the the wheelhouse, has been covered with silk paper, which gives the rough effect and then painted in a canvas colour.
bits that can not be seen are the wooden slatted floor parts that go in the wheelhouse and rear open part, these are still drying in the paint room.
as you all can see i have also started painting.
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Looking very effective- as has already been said, it's worth the effort on boats etc. to make the model look to scale.
Do you know how these boats were intended to be used 'in action'?
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Excellent, they are really coming along.
I still think Mr Dean should think about producing at 1/24 scale model of these boats :)
Mark
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i have many conflicting version of how these boats were used or deployed 'In Action'
and i would be glad to hear any others.
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I see that the Admiral gave a suprise inspection on the progress of HMS Inflexible. ;D
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super Photo Mark ^^^ ^^^ ;D ;D
i hope the Admiral was impressed
more photos of the torpedo boats to come, i now have the remaining missing parts to continue the build..
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a little bit more added to the Torpedo boats... there Prop shafts are finally finished
made from 0.45mm NiSi and 1mm Brass tubes from Albion Alloys, and a three bladed Prop from brass etchings
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Not quite sure the pitch on the third blade of the starboard prop is quite right ;D
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the charthouse is not quite finished, but here she is before she gets painted.
the railings are from 0.2mm Nickel silver Rod, the stanchions are from RB fittings.
the hand rail going down the steps still needs to be bent and soldered in place, but that's no big job.
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here we have the next photo, of the Forward Searchlight Platform, now ready for painting.
the Maxim guns and Searchlights have not been glued in place yet, as the wooden decking has a coat of masking tape on it to protect it while painting the rest of the structure.
the railings have been made the same way as the charthouse.
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Very nice work Colin
Robin ;)
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I hope you have drilled the barrels of the Maxims, don't want any slacking now :police:
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thats not a bad idea Mark... :-[ i have a drill bit that goes down to 0.2mm that should be large enough.. ^^^
i have still got to aply the handwheels to the searchlights... >:D
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a weekend down the cellar, what a bliss, no disturbances, all that time to invest on my Inflexible. :)
hear we have the forward chimney, before (white) and after (slightly painted) once its been through my fingers for modification and a general make it look nicer than anybody Else's... ::DD ::DD
first of all it was sanded smooth, the three rings were removed, only to be added again with micro strips.
the upper and lower rims also had some micro strips added to form a flange around the funnel.
the expansion overflow pipes (i think that's what they are) fore and aft were also added, in there own little rings to hold them in place.
also around the upper rim, using chopped down brass etched stanchions and 0.2mm NiSi rod to make that (don't know what its called) loop around the funnel.
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which also gave me plenty of time to carry on working on the Forward Flying Deck.
obviously a lot of the things that i have been doing this weekend i can not show you all at present, as they are drying from being painted.
this weekend i have been painting a lot of the fittings for the Forward Flying Deck, so hopfully in a few weeks this part of the build will be finished, apart from the Mast.
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I notice in the top of the funnels you have put some fine mesh, this is not something I have come across before, can you tell me what it's function is??? :-\
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i thought it looked nice, and to stop things (unwanted fingers) or leaves or general things that fly around in the air disappearing down the funnel, and me forgetting to clean the funnel out every now and again.
back in the days of Steam powered trains (locomotives) a mesh was placed in the top of the funnel so as hot ashes or sparks did not escape the system, it was known that crop or woodland fires near railway lines were caused by escaping embers.
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here is a small update, the Torpedo boats are finished and ready to be mounted on the Aft Flyingdeck.
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the forward searchlight platform is finished and will be packed away in silk cloth until the rest of the forward flying deck in finished.
the searchlights have had some hand wheels added that did not come with the kit.
and i have been building allsorts of fittings including painting them.
the second photo is of the 4.7" QF guns there is eight of them on this ship two above the forward anchors, four on the forward flying deck and two on above the aft anchors.
this is a kit in its own rights, i have also fitted hand wheels to the guns. these are also not part of the Kit.
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reading through some of the older entries in this forum i stumbled over this comment from Mark in his Dreadnought thread.
You are always only limited by your imagination and the time you put in.
and i thought this photo fits that comment right down to the ground... here is a couple of the fittings for the forward flying deck, yes all the parts have been hand painted with a paintbrush.
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Very fine work Colin - the skylight portholes must have been quite fiddly!
Hope that's not your only ruler. :(
Robin
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thanks for the vote of confidence.. ^^^
the skylight portholes are 2mm in size were the window part is, and yes they were quite fiddly, two sets of tweezers one in each hand to place them correctly into the drilled hole.
i do have a few other rulers of varying lengths but from the quality not much better ;D ;D ;D but i still manage to get the bits and pieces in the right place.
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Beautiful build Colin! Thank you for sharing!
Oliver
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Glad your enjoying the read and photo's Oliver
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and here's some more photo's and a small update into my Build-
the first photo is of the Torpedo Net Platform, its obvious that the Nets have not been tied down yet, there still waiting to be folded and rolled, the build its self; theres a few metal fittings to be worked on and the railings have been made in the same way as the charthouse.
the second photo is of the Military Tops, that have had a few changes made, according to the information i have, the parts that i have added are not in the kit, but most have them lying around (Micro Strips from Slaters)
the Military tops that are described in the instruction would look like the one on the far left hand side with out the Brassrods, on the right the compleated items ready to be installed onto the masts.
to get the Brassrods in the right place and for the ring around the top, i made a paper aid so all the parts were evenly spread.
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time for a very Small update, mind you these things take there time to produce and theres not just one of them...
there two masts on this ship.
the rigging is not just glued to the mast, so here we have the rings that go round the masts and have the rigging threaded through the Small holes, this has been achieved by soldering cut of railings stanchions to Brass tubing that has been cut into rings
top left: there are 2x 4mm rings, one with 5 and one with 2 hoops for the rigging, these will be fitted to the top mast.
bottom left: is the mast base
bottom and right: are 3 x 10mm rings, two with 5 hoops and one with 6 hoops
on the far right of the photo, you can see what they look like when slotted over the 9mm mast, they are obviously not in there correct position yet.
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just to show you all that i paint with paint brushes and not a spray gun.
the walls are a yellow, i have already painted this color twice, the walkway and steps are a Brown that has only had one coat so far, you can still see the white of the plastic coming through the color, and eventually the railing will be painted white.
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a small update on the front flying decks mast, that only parts now missing are the yard arms, which will be compleated this weekend.
the parts awaiting the sawblade just happen to be laying next to the mast.
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the First Yardarm is finished and ready to be applied to the Mast. ^^^
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the forward flying decks Mast is getting very close to being compleated.
just the ratlines (shrouds) to be added, and a couple of threads here and there.
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Looking very good Colin. What is the rigging material you are using? The ropes are hanging very realistically.
Robin
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its a three core nylon thread, can be obtained from Deansmarine, its even in some of the kits, but I'm not to sure which ones.
the good thing about this thread it does not fray like most threads.
to tie of the ends of the thread, i have split the three core down to single core and used the single core tied round the doubled back main thread.
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Colin is the nylon thread on the DM web site - could not spot it.
Robin
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no its not in the Online Shop as a single item, can only be found in some of the Kits.
but it would not suprise me if you wrote a nice e-mail asking for some then you would probably get some.
and as a result of these posts, it might appear in the online shop in due course
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here we have the compleated turrets, one is compleated and the other is getting its finishing touches, the black paint work is still to be compleated on the second turret.
the close up shows the selfmade turnbuckles that hold the turret top to the turret ring.
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Looks good Colin. I assume these turrets are to be remotely trained in azimuth or even elevation?
Robin
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i doubt it very much, this model is more of a championships Model, so she has to look good for the judges, i will not be putting any gadgets (mechanics) in her at all.
just the normal radio gear for Steering competitions.
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Wow. Colin, those turnbuckles look real!
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i doubt it very much, this model is more of a championships Model, so she has to look good for the judges, i will not be putting any gadgets (mechanics) in her at all.
just the normal radio gear for Steering competitions.
Thats interesting Colin. I think you are saying that working turrets are likely to appear a bit contrived on the judges table? Have to agree in general but I have seen one or two which have been very well done. I have thought about doing this myself but it looks too much trouble as the best seem to be complex engineering jobs not just sticking the turret on top of a servo.
Robin
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yes Robin that would be about the just of it...
i am not really into complex engineering, and just sticking the turret onto a servo does not look very good when the turret gets moved.
but then again, one day once she has been finished, and hopfully attained a podium position at a World Championships, i might just think about the engineering, and make them movable, spare parts for the turrets are always available, and easy to obtain, so i could make another set with the engineering applied.
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Hello Colin,
I'm new to the forum and here because I found a link indicating that you were building the HMS Inflexible--a ship that I too was interested in building. I now have John Haynes 2 sheets of drawings and have been looking at your model to see whether we are perhaps working from the same plan--via DM. On Haynes' plan there are NO loading shutes for the MLR's and I see on your model that you have none either and there should be shutes on the glacisplate. In DK Browns book Birth of the Battleship p.76-77 there is a very good repo of a drawing from NMM that shows the shutes but there is no reference to how far the turret turns to that spot. Any clues?
It is an impressive job you are doing and I look forward to seeing a completed model.
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Hello greateastern,
i am using both sets of plans, the ones from John Haynes and also the Kits plans, the reason behind this, i have already stated; the model will be entered into Competitions, being as it is a Kit, i can only enter it into the Scale Kit class, there for i must use the Kits Plans.
extratact out of the rule book for competitions.
Craftsmanship --- max. 50 points
Evaluation of technical craftsmanship and quality of the model.
Accuracy of the forms, the look of the surfaces and the quality of painting.
Impression --- max. 10 points
Evaluation of the overall impression and the appearance of the model.
Extent --- max 20 points
Evaluation of the overall extent of work on the model. Reconstruction and improvements should be evaluated positively. Time-consuming work should be considered and assessed, based on the degree of difficulty. In the F4-B and F4-C classes, reconstruction and accessories should be considered.
Accuracy in relation to the construction documents --- max. 20 points
Evaluating the construction scale (considering allowed tolerances). Completeness of all details, based on the documentation used by the competitor. Evaluation of the correct choice of paint and natural appearance of wood, metal, fabric, rigging, etc.
the 20 points for accuracy would be lost if i was not to use the kit plans, john haynes plans i use to alter things so they look nicer, to gain the craftsmanship appreciation.
i do not have the book you refer to, the information i have has come from the internet, NMM, Mr Haynes him self and Mr Dean. As to how accurate my model will be to the original once finished i am not really bothered, so long as the competition judges, give me the Points appropriate to the Model.
about the Loading chutes for the MLR's you might be referring to this; side elevation of turret (http://de.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Datei:RML_16_inch_gun_Clowes_Vol_VII.jpeg&filetimestamp=20091013090609) at a scale of 1:100 i am not to sure wether the loading chutes are all that important, the fact that the guns were muzzle loaded, and that the guns were lowered below the glascisplate, is enough information for me.. as to were these chutes are i have no clues at all...
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here we go... after a mammoth weekend of threading and tying knots and fixing the finished parts in there places the forward flying deck is about 95% finished.
the ratline (shrouds) on the port side still need to be compleated, and the torpedo nets rolled and stowed on there platform.
the shrouds have been individually threaded and tied, first the vertical lines were put in there place, then the horizontal threads were threaded with a needle through the vertical lines and tied of at each vertical line.
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heres a couple more photo's
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the Rear Flyingdeck is also taking shape... i have started on some of the fittings, the wooden deck has been laid.
the bits of plastic laying in the forground are the parts to go over the steps that go below deck (the two holes in the Deck between the guns)
the gangway is also growing.... not in the literal sense, there still lots to do, and its all rather fiddly
this weekend i continue work on the Hull and the main decks, and probably seal the wooden deck of this flyingdeck..
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sorry you all have been wailting for some more updates, but as a working man, one does have other things that are important, plus one has to keep her indoors happy.
time for some more photo's, i have been working on the boots deck, as you can see from the photo's this is now finished and ready for painting.
the railings have been compleated in the same way as all the other railings on this model...
the back ground colour does upset the eyes a little but its better that my dirty floor.. ;)
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Looking excellent Colin :). I know the torpedo boats are scratch built but the two smaller boats look like resin moulded items and look of very good quality, or are they scratch built as well?
Robin
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the torpedo boats are not quite scratch built, all the parts for the torpedo boats came out of the Kit, all i have done is modded the boats to suit a picture that i have of Second Class torpedo boats.
the other two boats in the middle are made of resin, that is correct, there from a Ukrainian manufacture, and they may well be at some time available in the UK... ;)
these two boats will be made into Steam Launches, I'll be changing the boiler and what looks like the motor..! :)
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Ukrainian :o Whatever happened to British manufacturing? Joking aside they do look of very good quality.
Robin
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i have been working on the main Decks, all the planking has been laid, and the third coat of varnish has just been applied, its still drying while i took the photo's
i even tided up my work bench before hand, so the photo's look a little nicer.. ;D
the planking is part of the upgrade kits, "LASER ENGRAVED DECK SHEETS" but i have modified them slightly to cover the decks much nicer, well i think i have done a good job... being as it is my very first planked Deck. :)
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Hi Colin,
can you please describe a little more detailed what you did to modify the planking. I also bought the pre-formed parts. Don't they fit exactly to the deck and the superstructure?
Schmidt
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everything can be modified to make things look a lot nicer.. :wink1:
the preformed wooden decks for the superstructure fit nearly 99%... there i did not modify anything...
only thing to think about with the superstructure, is the plastic deck needs to be glued in place a fraction lower than the marked line on the superstructure side panels to allow for the wooden deck.
the Main Decks planking is not quite as accurate, i suppose they could be used as supplied, but they did not quite cover all the plastic deck as i would have expected, it might be the way i built my Hull, i might have not keep with in the measurements.
basically i bought some more 2 mm single planks (http://www.deansmarine.co.uk/shop/product_info.php/cPath/5_19/products_id/309), about 6 lengths in total.
fitted the preformed decks loosely, marked the planks to be removed, because i would like to lengthen them to suite my wishes of how the deck should look, glued the preformed deck in place, then added the singles planks to fill in the gaps.
i hope the attached photo explains a little better
all in all, took me the best part of a sunday to do the complete Main Deck.
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"basically i bought some more 2 mm single planks, about 6 lengths in total.
fitted the preformed decks loosely, marked the planks to be removed, because i would like to lengthen them to suite my wishes of how the deck should look, glued the preformed deck in place, then added the singles planks to fill in the gaps."
I can't see the joins Colin ;D Good job. ^^^
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thanks Robin.. :)
one thing i must say, for those modelers that would like the wooden deck effect.
the preformed plank set is very easy and quick to glue in place and has the disired effect..
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Yha Colin that does look very nice...BTW what did you glue the planks down with..
Tom
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thanks Tommy
i used UHU plus endfest 300 (http://www.uhu.de/en/products/2-component-adhesives/detail/uhu-plus-endfest-3002-k-epoxidharzkleber.html?cHash=af94212bcfe4015a4922aafc50591775&step=0) to glue the Wooden decks to the plastic decks.
you have about 10 hours of working time, before the planks can not be moved anymore
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Epoxy!!! yes ^^^
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jup Tommy Epoxy... nothing better.. :)
now i have had time to complete the Gangway between the two flying decks... this assembly is now ready for painting.
looking at some of the photo's i have of the original ship, the gangway has a set of steps (not a ladder) that opens down to the top of the turrets.
in the kit there is some etched ladders, i opted to change this for a set of steps, they are also in the kit as a brass etched part.
seams to have turned out looking like the original..??
the signals house is already in the painting shop... this next time i photo this assembly, every thing should be painted, and fitted together.
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The steps look spot on. Interesting perforations in the sides of the walkway.
Robin
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extremely Interesting... and mind boggling... Robin... ::DD ::DD
they were all drilled out ("a very Interesting Job") before the sides were glued to the base. ^^^
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Hi Colin,
Beautiful build!
With regard to the gangway, how did you manage to bend the styrene to make the "curves"? Did you use thin styrene sheets?
Thank you for sharing!
Oliver
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jup Oliver, very thin plastic (Styrene)
0,5mm think are the side elements, and if you warm them a little (hair dryer) then its easier to bend
or pass the parts through your fingers, the friction produces heat which enables you to bend the plastic relatively easy.
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Slowly but surely things are taking shape.
I have been working on the Hull again, or even for that matter Still :-[
so the torpedo Nett booms have been applied, I have made them removable so the hull can be painted a lot easier, in the Kit the booms already have pins on them so all you have to do is drill the hull and apply the booms, not a bad idea if your painting everything one colour, but I have decided to paint them a very dark brown, being as the Hull is black I had work out a way to remove the booms, so with a load of self-made hooks and eyes the booms are now removable.
The steps on the side of the Hull are not shown in the Kit plans, but on photos that I have they are, so I made my self 4 sets out of Micro strips, the top part is 1mm x 0.2mm and the bar below is 0.5 x 0.5mm, these parts were glued together first of all, then they were applied to the Hull.
The wooden decks still have there protective coating, that will all come of once the Hull as been completely painted.
I have also been marking the deck for all the drill holes for the stanchions.
And I still have to enlarge the drilled out portholes and square them of to make square windows, were once the Hull has been painted the holes will be filled with clear drying epoxy.
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She is certainly starting to take shape now Colin.
Do you know why the steps have that joggle in? :o
Mark
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no idea at all, i just build what i see and ask no question.... ;D ;D ;D ;D
being as the steps were like that on John Haynes plans and on the Photo's that i have i did not think about why they were like that, but if i look in one of my Victorian books i sure it would be explained there
the only thing i can think of is to let two sailors overtake each other on the steps, or that one sailor would sand on one side and hold the Shipsboat for loading unloading, that way the remainder of the step would be free to use.
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just over a month of waiting for me to post in here..!! :o :o
the waiting is over here another couple of photo's showing the Hull nearly complete.
most of the painting is finished, the railings have been fitted on both sides, and most of the deck fittings have been painted and the parts fixed in there respective places.
apart from that i don't think theres much to say, apart from enjoy the photo's
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Enjoyed, enjoyed, more more more ^^^
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Looking very impressive - nice paint job Colin. When do you overpaint it in grey? ;D ;D ;D
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This version of the HMS Inflexible was scraped before the Gray paint arrived in the stores... well maybe not quite right, she was scrapped in 1903 which is roughly when Gray paint arrived in the stores.
HMS Inflexible 1876 (ironclad battleship) Victorian (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HMS_Inflexible_(1876))
HMS Inflexible 1907 ( Invincible-class battlecruiser) Gray (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HMS_Inflexible_(1907))
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wow Colin nice job ^^^
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thanks Tommy for the complement... :)
i have been putting in a few hours in the past few weeks, so as to get some more major parts compleated.
here we have the compleated Gangway and Signals Office, that stretches over the glacisplate from the forward flyingdeck to the rear flyingdeck.
all the parts taken out of the kit, with some slight modifications, the railings are of the same material that i have used throughout this model, 0.2 nickelsilver rod from Albion and Stanchions from RB fittings, all thees items are available from Deans, and are also mentioned in the Upgrade packages.
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Avery impressive structure on it's own.
Keep up the good work
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Colin,
If I could only make mine look half as good... beautiful!
Thanks for sharing!
Oliver
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I've seen her in "real life" and only 1 word comes in my mind: WOW!!
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being as the Boating season (Regatta competitions) has started, it will be a time before i can post any progress, as of course i will be attending the Regatta meetings insted of Building... hope you all understand.. :wink1:
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Okay, may let you off this time ;D
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i have been using a little of my time in between Competitions to build and finish of a couple more fittings.
here we have the 6 pounders for the Aft Flying deck and to two Anchor derricks for the Forward Flying deck
i have also found some very nice cutter's / Gig's there rather expensive but do look very nice indeed.
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Hi Colin - coming along very well. Interested to learn the source of the cutter/gig as it does look very good. :)
Robin
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have sent you a PM.... these ones are not available on the open market as such... a friend of a friend helped out..
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i have now had time to work on the shipsboats, 4 sailing gigs, 3 rowing gigs and 2 steam Launches.
the gigs just need there hook and eyes for the davits then they can be painted.
the 2 steam Launches i decided to plank there decks and make some nice boilers, so as they look the part...
still have the engine parts to build.
i hope the photo's do these shipsboats justice
a little notice: these shipsboats are not part of the kit, i have used these so as to save time working on the supplied vac - forming's, and to give my finished model that little difference from others.
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Very, very nice ^^^
Matching coal shovel? ;D
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i am not to sure if i will go that far ;D ;D ;D
having a little bit of a strain on the brain, i am not having any great joy making the steam engines... they don't really look right... i guess i will have to keep trying.. ::DD
first coat of varnish has been applied to the launches..
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after many a try, just to throw the parts in the bin and start again, i think i have managed to get my steam engines looking the part... ::DD
i have taken images out of the internet of different steam engines, and tried to make something that looks the part..
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Very nice work Colin. Photo with the Navy officer looks a bit like a caption competition ;D
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i have managed to finish of a couple of the Shipsboats..... enjoy the photo's ^^^
including painting the individual ribs and the floor grating ::DD ::DD
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Little masterpieces Colin - will look very good on Inflexible ^^^
Robin
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i have forgotten to mention, that all the Ships boats are now finished, so i can now concentrate on the Aft Flying Deck, the last major assembly to complete, most of the fittings are already painted and awaiting completion of the Aft Flying Deck. ^^^
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i thought it was about time i continued with my build, as we are now in Autumn, and the weekends are a lot free-er to carry on my Build.
so here we have the Davits for the rear flying deck; 2 sets of small, Medium, and Long
the small and Medium ones i have modified the feet (or the part that get glued to the flying deck) as i thought that one foot would not hold the davits with its boot in place, so i have added a second foot for more gluing area.
the Long Davits i decided to give them a little more strength in the lateral plane, hoping that this will help when doing all the rigging, as i can now attach the blocks a lot easier to the top crossbar.
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and the build continues; ^^^
the rear flying deck is nearing completion, most of the fitting have been glued in place.
what still need to be compleated;
the ships boats davits need to be attached to the sides of the flying deck, then the ships boats attached to the davits.
the rear mast, needs painting then the rigging can be attached, and the yard arms still have to be made.
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and this is what she looks like when all the parts are placed in the correct position on the Hull ^^^
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Hi Colin,
It is certainly coming together now. ^^^
I must say though I wouldn't have wanted to steer the ship from the auxillarry postion, what with funnels vents and ships boats obscuring the view!
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your not wrong there mark... ::DD
one would certainly have to trust ones "look outs"
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i have finally had time to continue with my build.
over 30 single little blocks that i had etched for me, there not in the kit.
first of all a before and after photo.
the blocks are made up out of four parts, two round disks, the main outer block and the pin through the middle
first of the the two round disks are joined (laid on top of each other) then the outer block part is bent into shape, the disk is then slotted into the outer block part, once in position the pin is slotted into place
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once painted, they can then be attached to the Davits and ships boats, one down six to go--- :o
the rear flying deck is really starting to take shape, the rear mast is nearly complete, then all that is left to do, is a lot of rigging.
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Those blocks are an excellent addition to a fine looking model, well worth the effort.
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Nice job Colin
Robin
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Very nice Colin, wish I had some spare time to do some modelling >:D
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i know what you mean Mark, normally i would have been finished with this Build last year, but allass there is always something to do that's more important.. :)
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over the past weeks, i have been tying round about 10-20 knots a day, and the rigging is taking shape, hopefully be finished by the end of next weekend. ::DD ::DD
it certainly sends the eyes wonky
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a few more knots tied today... 33 in total...
yes the Ratlines (rattlin's) have been singular threaded through the vertical Shrouds and then tied to each shroud in turn, secured with a pinhead drop of superglue, once finished each knot will get a dab of satin varnish as superglue is not waterproof.
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You must have nimble fingers Colin, they do look good though and so dose that deck.
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my fingers are like thick pork sausages :) , but thank god, he let us have tweezers and very strong spectacles ::DD
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Hello Colin,
the result is excellent :) I can imagine the patience it took but it was worth the effort. I hope we shall meet each other at Dortmund.
Kind regards
Arno
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the ships and myself will be at the Intermodellbau (Dortmund), for all to see and inspect 8) 8)
so hope to see you all there..
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this project is nearly come to an end.
these will be the last picture i post, as this model is about 98% finished, all that's left to do is the Flags and pennants.
hope you all enjoy the photo's
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Very impressive Colin, have you any idea how it will sail? If so do you intend it to be used as a regatta boat? I suppose it might be a bit too vulnerable at the stern with those overhanging boats.
Robin
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thank you Robin....
so far on the test runs that i have made during the past years, she handles quite well on the normal Naviga courses.
she will defiantly be taking part in the German scale championships in the Kit class, which is being held in June this year.
she will more than likely not be an every weekend regatta boat... she will be kept under the glass dome for major competitions...
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Yes I have to agree with Robin really most impressive, the time and skill you have spent on her is obvious, she is a credit to you Colin.
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thanks muchly Joe
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Impressive or what??? Beautiful job. Mind you glad I wasnt a seaman in that era. Would have dreaded the pipe 'hands secure all ships boats'!!!
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Excellent job, Colin! :)
Did you realize the painting without airbrush as you wrote in a different thread? If so I must admit you can't see a difference to a perfect airbrush.
Kind regards - Arno
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thanks Mike and Arno...
yes Arno, she has completely been painted with a brush (hand painted)... a little trick... the last coat is a satin varnish that come out of a spray can... from the firm Faust (Praktiker)
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Have to say Colin she is a great looking model, I wish you well in June and it just goes to show that time and care makes a great model.
Paul
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thanks Paul...
she was christened during the Intermodellbau (trade fair) in Dortmund, as soon as i get some photo's I'll post them...
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there were some lucky modelers in Dortmund at the Intermodellbau 2012, on the Saturday afternoon my HMS Inflexible was Christend and sent down the slipway for its first launch on to that cold and wet stuff called water....
" gingyer " of Mayham fame, has a couple of photo's from this christening, which he well be sending me at the weekend all being well..
meantime:
i was down the lake today and took her for another sail to see how she handles, as we have the German Scale Champs coming up in June, and i have entered her in them.
enjoy the photo's
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Hi Colin,
very impressive :) Good luck for the championship ^^^
Arno
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a bit of luck is what i needed.... and it worked out just right to take the title
1st in the Scale Kit Class ^^^ ^^^ a Brit is the German Champ... ::DD
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Congratulations, Colin! ^^^
I knew you would do it.
Kind regards
Arno
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thanks Arno.. 8)
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well what more is there that can be said that the pictures of the build and the result table dont already say? BZ Colin ..............BZ
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Yes a big well done Colin the time you spent on her really paid off, she looks great on the water
Joe
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Well done Colin, a very good finale to your project. Blankenheim looks a great venue.
Robin
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thanks very much chaps...
yes Blankenheim is and was a very nice venue... great place for a quite holiday not far from the nurnburg ring..
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a couple of photo's of my Gold Medal for the Inflexible
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Hi Colin,
it surely must have been a great moment for you receiving the gold medal. I like your shirt. Can you buy it at Deans Marine?
Kind regards
Arno
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Hi Colin,
With this model you were doing a great job!!! I will have an eye on your other projects... - hoping you could forgive me about that "espionage"!
Have lots of thanks to you for all that awesome nice pictures.
I find them very helpful for overworking my 1:700-scale scratchbuilt model of the Inflexible.
Guess this thread is the best source you can find in the web concerning the look of that ship.
Also a lot of thanks to Deans Marine for that wonderful model!
Cheers to all of you!
Maedis.
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no Problems... if the information helps... there your welcome to it..
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Hi Colin, would you be kind enough to put a close up of the life boats so that we can see how you secured them. I really do not like the way I have done mine but would love to see how you did yours and what you used. Thank you if you take the time to did this for me and I hope others.
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Hi Paul,
i imagine you are talking about the ships boats on the Davits... 7 Of..??
these are not really classified as lifeboats, there working boats and used to erect the torpedo nets and patrol round the ship when anchored.
there not actually secured in place, they hang on there ropes that are connected to the Davits through pulleys.
on the davits i made some tieoffs (cleats) and wrapped the rope (string) around the cleats.
hope this is what you were asking for, or do you mean the torpedoboats and Steam launches on the boatsdeck.
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Hi Colin, the first photo is what I am looking for, the pulleys you used or made to secure the boats to the Davits. Did you make these or is there a supplier I could use. Paul.
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the pulleys are brass etchings that i got made up for me.
i used the pulleys that were in the kit for the measurements and redrew them in Coral Draw.
so basically they are the white metal fitting that Deansmarine has for all there 1/96 kits, just been made out of brass
if you go back to page 10 you will see close ups of the making of the pulleys.
http://www.deansmarine.co.uk/index.php?topic=144.msg2479#msg2479 (http://www.deansmarine.co.uk/index.php?topic=144.msg2479#msg2479)
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Do you have the deans refer number for the etch parts, Think I will get some.
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sorry to say, but the brass etched ones have not gone into Production yet... it was a set that i got made up specially for me.
Deansmarine only have the white metal fittings available..!
if you know some one that can do brass etchings i can send you the drawing..
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HMS Inflexible and HMS Zulu on Patrol...
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Colin, they look magnificent, well done. A picture like that makes everything worth while, and an inspiration to those us just starting out, many thanks, Regards Clive
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Nice photo Colin, those early tribal destroyers certainly presented a low profile for any enemy gunners at that time and fast even by todays standards,
I'm going to order her frigate name sake later this mouth. Joe
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Nice picture Colin, not that easy to set up the subjects and take the photo. I find most modellers get nervous when I try and sail in formation with them. :'(
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Yes great photo! Like how your destroyer is cutting through the water ^^^
Tom
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glad you chaps enjoyed the photo....
yes Joe, i would imagine it was very hard for the enemy to train on a tribal class.
i know what you mean Robin, luckily enough both captains can sail there ships very good, so such photo`s are easy to come by..