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Topic Summary

Posted by: simon2302
« on: 21 July 2013, 14:21:53 »

Wow im jealous
Posted by: radio joe
« on: 21 July 2013, 13:39:01 »

Just as you say Clive she looks magnificent and a credit to you, well done mate.   Joe
Posted by: cabin boy
« on: 19 July 2013, 21:57:26 »

Hi guys been in Belgium unable to post photos cannot reduce to required KB's, so have e mailed to Deans hope they can oblige. I expect I will have to get some software for computer to be able to post future photos on next project. Can,t decide yet, a corvette or perhaps a liberty ship to escort. The official launch next week. Looks magnificent due to your help and support. Many Thx Clive

Hi Clive, i have received the photo's, reduced them to the right KB's and attachted them to your post.  8)
Posted by: radio joe
« on: 11 July 2013, 19:57:05 »

While on the subject of props, When I started Solebay my first Deans kit I got the wrong prop type in an order error on my part and got A type which are recommended for passenger/ cargo ships but thought well they will be OK, then I built Bramble and fitted the right props IE.  D type. Today I have gotten round to correcting my mistake and fitted a pair of D type props to Solebay I think they look better and have a slightly larger blade area Solebay certainly doesn't need any more speed  but I'm happier with the looks of them.
Posted by: radio joe
« on: 11 July 2013, 19:21:27 »

Hi Clive ,  I don't use thread lock on my props the lock nut is more than enough to hold the props, I made a prop holding tool from an old tube spanner with three slots cut out the end so leaving three prongs that slide between the prop blades this holds it very securely while the nut is tightened.
Posted by: Manxman1831
« on: 26 June 2013, 05:40:20 »

I found with my Cossack, that even on quadruple voltage (changed from what I thought was two functioning lead-acid batteries to two NiMH packs) the connection at the propshaft was strong enough to survive a run at full power, but not striking a fish.  The threadlock should be more than sufficient.
Posted by: cabin boy
« on: 25 June 2013, 08:59:15 »

Solebay finished, bath test completed, what a thrill, looks magnificent. My last querie. I have wired props to turn inwards. I have used Zap thread locker, medium strength when fitting propellers. On the other end of the prop the flexible joint connector does not have a lock grub screw to help secure it to the prop, like on the end that connects to the motor.   As this connection takes the full thrust of the motors will the thread locker I have be sufficient or do I need something stronger. Hope my son will post photos already taken this evening. Many Thx Clive
Posted by: colin
« on: 16 June 2013, 09:33:45 »

 lot of people say that the Receiver should be as far away as possible from the electrics....
this is not so... nearly every single model that i have built, the receiver is right next to the ESC...
its not the ESC that provides the electrical disturbance, its the collector of the motor...

engineroom from HMS Inflexible Receiver right next to ESC

Just make sure the Aerial of the Receiver goes no were near the motors... and you should have no Problems at all.

there are a couple of articles on twin motors and prop directions in this forum..
Steering a twin engined boat
Rotation of twin props
Posted by: cabin boy
« on: 15 June 2013, 21:48:49 »

Thx guys for prompt responses. Very much obliged  Clive
Posted by: paul swainson
« on: 15 June 2013, 13:32:31 »

Hi Clive,  I placed the ESC in the middle of of the forward deck opening and the receiver is place in the middle of the main deck opening and that keeps the balance and the distance with out too many extention leads.  See photos.
Posted by: radio joe
« on: 15 June 2013, 13:24:11 »

Hi Clive
I've got my receiver under the bridge area and the esc's by the motors, It's not critical it just makes sense to keep the receiver away from interference.
I always turn my props inwards at the top of the prop, but again it's not critical the ship will still sail either way, look forward to seeing her

Joe
Posted by: cabin boy
« on: 15 June 2013, 12:56:24 »

More advice plse. Build finished bath test next week. The ESC instructions say, ' As far away as possible from receiver'. So what is a minimum acceptable distance. I have previously read the discussions on connecting of motors and turning direction of each prop. I will then as promised post photos taken by my son as my tech ability does not stretch that far. Although there are many frustrations with a Dean built it does get the grey matter working and a sense of achievement and pride. I think I am catching the 'Joe bug' exploring which model will come next.
Many Thx Clive
Posted by: cabin boy
« on: 09 June 2013, 09:57:24 »

Hi Joe and Colin once again thanksClive
Posted by: radio joe
« on: 08 June 2013, 13:32:36 »

Hi Clive
I always use acrylics and have never found the need to apply a sealer or varnish I guess it's a personal choice thing as for grease I use Graupner shaft grease wiped on the shafts as you assemble them just enough to coat them and then ,when assembled, a plug applied though the oiler tube with a syringe you don't want to fill the shaft tube it would cause too much drag.
Posted by: colin
« on: 08 June 2013, 12:02:38 »

Hi Clive
normally there should be no need to varnish.... but... i always varnish with a satin varnish.. it protects the main paintwork if i scratch it, its only the varnish that then need redoing.

all of my propshafts have a little Vaseline inserted with a syringe.