Deans Marine
General Discussion => Customers Builds => Topic started by: colin on 07 March 2008, 17:02:09
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this is my version of the Deans Marine Kit Liz Terkol
the Tankdeck is finnished, the rest of the Model is on its way, once i have compleatly finished i'll publish some more Photo's
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thats looking impressive!! i still have mine to build ..where do you get the crew figures from...?....keep posting the pictures if you can..thanks.
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the figures that i have used are from Preiser (non paited) like the ones in the link below, most people know this name from model railways, they also do some 1:100 scale figures as well, some ready painted some not!
if you google with this search option you will find a few shops in the UK that sell these figures:
"Preiser detailed-figures 1:100"
mainly used in Architecture offices?
order numbers from Preiser:
74090, 190 pices unpainted, allsorts
74009, 6 pices painted (orange) mechanics
some shops do the unpainted ones in groups of six, like this german shop for example!
this is were i got my figures from:
3 figures came from part no. 124501
2 figures come from part no. 124510
3 figures come from part no. 124529
the rest landed in the bin..!!!
http://www.modulor.de/shop/oxid.php/sid/x/shp/oxbaseshop/cl/details/anid/TLGM/pgNr/2 (http://www.modulor.de/shop/oxid.php/sid/x/shp/oxbaseshop/cl/details/anid/TLGM/pgNr/2)
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I have now had time to finish the Hull, all the electric is complete, the on/off switch is hidden under one of the lockers on the for deck and under the other locker is the connection for charging the batteries.
I have used two 12v 4 Amp gel batteries to give me 12v 8 Amps a lot of running time when considering the 12v Buhler motor only uses around 1 Amp at maximum.
the for and aft masts have a 1mm x 3mm SMD LED installed in the hollowed out White metal fittings that came with the Kit.
all I have to do now is complete the superstructure.
If anyone needs any advice on this Model then please don't hesitate to ask!
:)
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here we go then, with some more Photo's and how i made the Window Frames, plus a photo of the SMD LED's and the respective wire used to keep track of which side of the LED is the plus(+) pole
the Window Frames were made out of brass tubeing that what milled down a little to give a wall thinkness of 0.2mm and then cut off so i had a load of rings.
the rings were then drawn over a jig that reshaped the rings from round to rectangle
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and just to round it all up, i have finnished the superstructure, the compleated Model can be Viewed in Dortmund, Germany at the Intermodellbau from the 16-20.04.2008
also on numerus Regatta Competitions through the coming years
it has been a plesure to build ;D
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the Day has come for the Maiden Voyage.
so today my Lis Terkol was Christened, and i had my first expirience of this Model on the water
all in all an enjoyable Voyage
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Hi Colin,
Thanks for sharing these pics. I think they're very useful.
I did not start building my Liz Terkol yet. This is probably still some months away. But by reading your postings some questions came up:
- The main deck of such tanker usually is not much above the waterline. Assuming the cover of the midsection (on which all the tubes are mounted) remains removable how did you make sure that it is (more or less) water proof? Would you mind sharing a close up?
- Would you know the RAL colour codes that should be used?
Thanks for your tips.
Kind Regards,
FJF
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Hello FJF,
i have a convertion tablle for the Humbrol numbers to RAL, i'll have to check on the Humbrol numbers that i used, then i'll post them later...
one that i do remember of the top of my head is the Deck colour is:
Humbrol No. 20 = RAL 3000
as for the Main Tank Deck, yes the hole of the Tank Deck is removeable on my Lis
of course unlike all real tankers, were the Tank Deck is at water line
basicly i followed the instructions in the manuel, the hole of the Tank Deck is about 5 mm higher than expected, around the Holes in the hiden deck i places 5 mm high plastic also interlocking on the underside of the Main removeable tank deck (insted of using wood as discribed in the Instructions) thats why in the privious photo of the Tank Deck there is a 5 mm side panel in Green!
the photo shows the underside of the Main Tank Deck (Photo from Instructions) or CD Available from Deansmarine.
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the other Humbrol colours that i used are:
Humbrol No. 002 = RAL 6029 (waterline)
Humbrol No. 073 = RAL 3027 (under waterline)
Humbrol No. 090 = no RAL No. (Hull) Matt Beige Green
Humbrol No. 100 = RAL 8015 (Bridge Deck)
Humbrol No. 130 = RAL 9010 (Bridge)
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Hi Collin,
Thank you very much for this. This defenitely will help me.
I still think Deans kits are the the most fascinating ones!
Kind Regards,
FJF
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Colin are you at deans show in september?
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all being good, yes i will be there, not book the Ferry yet, but all is looking good.. ^^^
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Hope you can make it iv booked it off already. Will be good to see you then i can pick your brains about leds etc. I would like to visit germany as i was born over there
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Hi my name is raymond am considering building Lis Terkol very interestiong reading and informative info you have posted--my question is re the jig you made for the window frames vey effective The jig you made was it a punch originally --and how did you achieve the transition from circlr to rectangle gradually?interested to learn
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Hi Raymond, the Lis Terkol is very interesting Ship to build, i would not recommend it for the Beginner... but if you have built Deans models before then enjoy.. ^^^
the jig is made out of a solid piece of hardend steal, milled and filed to shape, if you find a punch of the size required then of course that can be used...
because the Jig starts of round which converts gradually to a rectangle, you can push the rings over the jig with your fingers.
the brass tube wall thickness was firstly milled down to about 0.2mm so there is not much brass left over to cause a problem when pushing the rings over the jig
once the ring is rectangle and while it is still on the Jig, using a pair of long nosed pliers to squeeze the corners, so they are a lot sharper..
here is a better/larger photo
hope this helped, and of course don't hesitate to ask more questions, i have over 190 photos of my build
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First of all thanks for your quick reply Using a block of hardened steel makes sense Though not being a metal worker I do not understand the term milling
I have built many ships/boats over the years including the most recent Trein Maresk theDeans Container vessel other included from various makers Calypso , The Royal yacht brittania , Tanker Brannaren, Tug Teskoa, and the Bismark which took 4.75 years to build-- I always say this will be my last but the enjoyment to build is overwhelming.
In the Deans forum --Deans have posted pics of my finished trein maresk please enjoy regards
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Do you know the term "turning wood" or how dowel is made ??
It's the same principle but with metal, the brass tube was put in a lathe, we're the wall thickness was reduced from 0.5mm to 0.2mm, if you take a close look at the photo and the end of the brass tube you will see this .. ^^^
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Nice work on the model. How did you make the railings?
Does the Liz Terkol use the same hull as Anna Marie?
Bernard Kempinski
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Hi Bernard, thanks for your comment.. ^^^
the railings are made from single etched stations with 0,3mm brass rod threaded through...
no the Hull is not the same as Anna Marie, it is a completely different one..
all of these items are in the Kit and also available singular from Deans marine
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Thanks. I was unaware of the etched stanchions from Deans Marine. I will get a couple sets of those for my Anna Marie build.
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Dear me, I'm also busy with the liz terkol. But this one still differs a bit from yours. Especially the part where the tubes stand up that is well made with the raised edges at the front and at the back of my model, this is not perhaps that I can make this myself. I'm from belgium.
mvg Chris