Hints and Tips > Glues & Paint
Humbrol matt spray varnish
kit:
Just thought that I'd give a heads up to others about a little problem that I had with my Zulu....
I brush painted the kit with a combination of humbrol and revell enamel, everything worked out fine and there was no reaction between the different manufacturers. I then sprayed it with Humbrol matt enamel varnish from a spray can to smooth over the finish and get rid of the brush marks; of which there were many....
It came out with a slightly satin finish but I wasn't too worried about that, as far as I can remember warships don't have a flat matt finish anyway. This was in August 2014.
Come October I noticed some changes in the colour scheme. The deck was now greeny brown, the superstructure and hull were greyey brown and the white bits were just brown. The effect was exactly the same where I had used humbrol and revell paint so that wasn't the problem. The only bit that wasn't affected was the focsle where I had applied a really thick layer of varnish that took about three hours to even start to dry; lots of brush marks to cover!
Doing some more research on the internet I found out that browning can be a problem with varnishes. I guess that the more experienced of us are fully aware of the problem so just a warning for others. Having to repaint the model top to bottom over Christmas was something of a pain!
Cheers
Kit
minerva:
I have always used Halfords Acrylic car paints (spray cans)as recommended in Deans instructions.
Ford Polar Grey (ships side grey) Matt black for boot topping and red primer for anti fouling
and FX. I prime first using Halfords matt grey. For white areas I use Ford Diamond white.
No problems at all but it is rather expensive.
Troy Tempest:
Instead of regular varnish a tip I've picked up from scale modelling is to use Johnson's Klear Its actually floor polish but makes an excellent seal and dries to a Satin finish. Its also useful to apply prior to any decals to avoid silvering and then as a top coat to seal them on.
Ever since I had some yellowing from Humbrol varnish Ive used this and no after effects seen
However as always I would advise testing first just in case there is a reaction with whatever paint is being used
Works fine on Halfords rattle cans however, in support of Minerva's post I use the same making sure i select the plastic primers as they also sell the same colours as metal primers
minerva:
Regarding Johnson's klear, I have a bottle here (it's last for ages).
I always use it to dip clear plastic parts for glazing in, allow to dry and then
these can be fixed in place using cyno, the Klear prevents misting of the glazed
area. (ref 4.5" gun directors from shapeways and bridge glazing )
Mark:
Humbrol varnish has a Polyurethane base and always goes yellow no matter what you do. I always give a model a waft over with acrylic satin varnish before the final glazing and rigging, just to seal all the surfaces. On the hull I will give a couple of coats if its a working model, just so I can get it clean easily after its been afloat.
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